Bulk Discounts for Scarab Knife 270 r2 BLACK AIR - GPS RTH - FPV Trainer Carbon Electonica kit
Below are the available bulk discount rates for each individual item when you purchase a certain amount
Buy 10 - 19 and get 10% off
Buy 20 or above and get 20% off
Out of stock
FAST OVERNIGHT SHIPPING To Australia - or FAST to USA by DHL in 3-4 days for very low ship rates* >400 to USA = free shipping
This is the Aussie SCARAB Knife r2 Knife 270mm BLACK mini Quad - BLACK AIR with GPS editionElectronica kit
The Knife is designed to be a light airframe at only 125g (125g with camera isolation mount deck as per photos above), yet super-strong - can be flown indoors when its raining outside, or outdoors in ANY wind condition - flown fast and furious - comes fitted with a PARIS AIR Hero v2 - features an original Scarab style dead-cat profile with a full isolated front deck on 4 gell balls to carry an HD video camera such as the mobius. The 3mm CF booms are ribbed to reduce drag by micro separation of the boundary layer under the props. There are no nuts and no soldering - all M3 SS bolts screw directly to embedded M3 inserts - and all hardware is either Stainless Steel or Aluminium. The carbon used in the Knife is different - stronger. More Layers. Also important was a flexible battery location for either sideways mount or longitudinal rear Lipo mount if an HD camera is carried, using a CarbonBird 3S2500 21mm liPo.
Why 270mm? - the design size is determined by the width of the camera deck to hold a 40x60mm HD camera with "zero" gello between the front 5-6" props - unlike other Quads which are unstable in roll axis due their distorted geometry, the Knife is super stable because motor centres sit on the circular plane - yet still allow the HD camera an absolute un-obstructed prop-free view of the fast moving terrain in front.
Why are the motors attached the top plate? - stability science - lower C of G = more stable - the weight lies below - Designed to be stable
Why are there so many holes in the frame? - 1) weight reduction with compromise to strength 2) Speed - ensure air pressure does do build up on the top surface in fast forward flight.
Where are the landing gear? - Mini Quads don't need or use landing gear - it is best to land on lawn grass until you have the skills to land and take off from your hand (always wear eye protection - props can cut!) if you are going to fly in a concrete area use standoffs HERE to prevent abrasion on the concrete
Why Knife? - a Knife is still the ultimate tool in the hands of a man who knows how to keep it sharp, and use it to effect. Keep it light.
What is the take-off weight? <500g with everything - HD Mobius - isolation deck - FPV gear - 3S1500 LiPo - Quite too - stealthy. We recommend a Light-weight build. Adding heavy objects will add weight and reduce performance - avoid heavy RC gear, avoid large cameras, avoid heavy FPV Tx's - the goal is to fly as light as possible.
Whats the difference between the Red DAL Props and the Triples? - the RED props are super tought to survive Noob crashes but are less efficient than the triples for smoother and faster flight - the triples flex in flight and produce less vibration feedback to the IMU becuase they are out-of-phase
LEDs Included - Includes RED/BLUE LEDs for racing or indoor ops - yes included (effective 12 June 2015)
I have a Phantom - can i fly this? NO, not initially - it's well beyond your level atm - You must use the FPV Freerider SIM HERE - Phantoms/NAZA are designed to fly themselves and don't develop any human co-ordination skills that are transferrable. dji was always intended to be a robotic plutonic experience giving limited 20% in-direct motors response control (back seat of a taxi feeling) - dji controllers wanting to actually fly for the first time now, ie control the drone motors 100% without intervention - You need to train your reflexes on the racer SIMULATOR - as the truth is the Knife requires real pilot skill - you are going to need to be able to roll quickly to 90° or 360° and dodge fast moving low level objects - If you can fly the flight Sim without crashing, then you are ready to fly a Knife. If you refuse to learn pilot SKILLs - then you will be trapped in dji-alice-n-naza-land forever. So we recommend to get the SIM connect it to your Taranis and learn co-ordination skills - within a few days on the Simulator you will have real life-long skills. Flying this Racer with a naza is going to be a lame experience as naza auto modes like atti or gps are limited to 35° bank and this product is intended for full 360° rotations and to tap into fast human reflexes.
PARIS AIR v2 Hero requires no coding to setup or fly - However for "expert multiwii-users" below are some optimised PIDs/Sketches (experts - only, needed if you alter the AIRv2 autopilot in some way out of the ordinary) and expert level persons wishing to re-flash their firmware code (not recommended in 99% of cases) - Download these mini optimised PIDs version after clearing eeprom - here but don't install the code until you have read the AIR v2 hero page in full first - noob mistakes like i2c errors rising are ALWAYS caused by incorrect code vs hardware (noob loads wrong code version in error) un-powered 5v power supply to I2C devices like GPS ; or connecting USB first (wrong - props off - LiPo/ESC power first, then USB last) - Read AIR needs external 5v to power GPS or i2c devices like oLED - GPS not plugged in (plug is literally half-in or upside down) or GPS not powered up first etc. We recommend to unplug the GPS at the GPS side - the GPS and oLED plug only goes in one way. Noobs->Do NOT ever load code before the first maiden - is just a huge mistake leading to nowhere... For example on the AIR page wiki it is clearly explained what a GPS i2C error of "3" means. If you see i2c errors its something you are doing wrong - calm down, and do NOT reload code. Your AIR was fully tested before being sent to you and is WORKING 100%
Kit Includes effective 21.10.2015
r2 AIRFRAME with extras
4-balls video-gello killer VRS camera deck extreme front - no props in view (1.0mm 5-Layers 3K weave CF 65x65mm for mobius size 40g cameras)
4 x 108x27mm engine mount Booms - 3.0mm CarbonFibre 2-Layers 3k weave and 20 layers uni inside 90°/0° alternate - Motor mount holes are 2.0mmØ at 12mmØ (6) and 16mmØ(2)
1 x 250x125mm 2.0mm 2-Layers Full 3K weave and 10 layers uni inside 90°/0° alternate carbon top plate
1 x 250x80mm 1.5mm 2-Layers Full 3k weave and 8 layers uni inside 90°/0° alternate Carbon Lower plate
2 x 22mm RED anodised CNC standoffs (front )
2 x 25mm RED standoffs (2nd position from front)
8 x 30mm RED anodised stand offs (2 x rear positions) - the C of G on the side spines - the battery can be mount sideways, or at the back if a Mobius/Replay mini is added - see photos
1 x set RED props 0645 DAL - 2 CW + 2 CCW - these RED props are tough Noob props - be sure to balance them first
1 x set (alternate) triple bladed HQ 5x4 props - faster, risky flying props where your precious carbon props might fear to go - to run these you need to fit the 5.0 Prop adapter included in the motor kits - fit these props if youre already experienced and this is your 2nd or third racer
28+1 x M3*5 SS bolts
8 x M2*6 SS bolts for mounting motors - 2 bolts per motor is sufficient
1 x tension band (tilts the back of the camera deck up slightly by squashing the 2 rear gel balls down)
1 x velcro battery strap - this is used to prevent the LiPo lifting off the adhesive-velcro (next item)
1 x Velcro adhesive must be attached to the battery lower side - and the frame where you place the LiPo - this velcro stops the battery sliding
6 x zip ties - (for ESCs and wires)
includes PARIS Sirius™ AIR v2 HERO autopilot
includes RTH GPS - Return to home GPS (effective June 2016 includes faster uBlox Neo GPS - top mount)
includes 4*CarbonBird T-Motor 1806 motors 2300kv - details HERE
includes 4*CarbonBird 490hz BLHeli 18a ESCs - with Damped Lite on, run cooler, quieter
includes 4*thermal pads for ESC mounting - nothing mounts more efficiently
includes XT60 5 way power distribution lead - plug-n-play - no soldering
Social Group - consider joining the FB SCARAB-Club - this page is NOT run by us - it is a FB social site for Scarab Pilots to go as a "3rd Place retreat" and hang out with other pilots and shoot the breeze. - Don't just be a lurker - share your experiences with the group.
Excludes 3S1500mah 60c LiPo - effective 21.10.2015 these have been removed from the kit (many pilots have these aleady ) based on feedback, and price reduced
Excludes Carbon Props - effective 21.10.2015 these can be purchased separately if desired - price has been alter down for the kit to reflect this change
Excludes USB cable - these are common USB->USB micro samsung or camera cables - or sold HERE if needed
Instructions - the flow is 1)build and check RC Tx setup calibration to 1095/1500/1905 in PC MultiWiiConf java GUI - 2) test run without props 3) power test with props in hand held test (hand maiden) 4) hover test 5) final flight test by skilled pilot (if you are new to it use the SIM first) . - Knife is very easy to screw together - NO SOLDERING ;; = Instructions= Sharp carbon can cut wires and is conductive so, First thing, for the CF plates dull down all the edges with a diamond file (not included) - then warm the GPS to <100°C with a hairdryer so the heatshrink is soft - then push the top-plate down over the warm heat-shrink - it will then seat fully when soft - allow to cool for 10 secs in position in the frame - (lift it back out and doublecheck you have not melted or cut the insulating heatshrink) use 3 nylon screws to hold the GPS - install the four motors to the booms using two short M2*6 SS - then assemble as per the photos above starting with attaching the booms to the top deck. Then install the 4+4 stand offs - if you are not installing a 22mm FPV camera - in the lower centre - then you can elect to fit the 5th red standoff front and centre for extra impact protection. Leave the lower deck until last after all the electronics and motors are fitted (see photos above for wire routing) - then attach the lower deck with 4*M3 and 4*M2 screws last. Balance - the geometric centre of a Knife is marked by the tips of the side spines - when held on the spines it should tip forwards slightly with everything installed and about to fly. The correct size battery is designed to be held in place by the friction of one piece of female velcro in the slots. If you decide to build at 30mm then use the velcro battery strap around the lower side. • Keep your Rx >75mm from any ESC. ESC produce switching noise interferance that you don't want going near your Rx, or your Rx antenna. • Balance your motors if you want a superior machine for HD Video - see copper tape HERE (not included) • Mount your antenna on zip ties - Carbon can block RF signals even at short range - make sure your failsafe is programmed and checked - see photos on our InstaGram page • Test all motors and ESC by holding full power for 10 secs and then full battery run at 50% with a prop on (wear eye protection) in a hand-maiden test - if any motor hesitates shut down and see below - After a successful hand maiden - disconnect 3 red wires from 3 x ESC's inputs to the the AIR (apply heatshrink) and leave only one ESC BEC RED wire to feed 5.0v to the PARIS AIR. PARIS AIR uses approx 55ma and one ESC can supply 500ma - so one ESC is plenty of 5v power. For further info on ESC heat see the 12a ESC page question 4
Excludes RC receiver - for Taranis we recommend X4R-SB + Sbus inverter cable + Sbus->CPPM adapter which will give you 4 Aux Ch providing you load code yourself for C-PPM Quad-X GPS here ; you can use the X8R direct to PARIS AIRv2 Hero and get 2 Aux channels - no extra wires needed ;;; for Futaba use the TFR4 and code for C-PPM
Excludes Loctite thread locker glue
Excludes FPV gear - FPV Camera and Tx and ground-station - above right
Requires adult supervision - this is not a TOY - well OK , for men its a seriously fast aerobatic FPV escape (or fast women)
Note - effective 16 Feb 2015 CF frame plate is revised slightly in light of feedback
Assembly tips Question - Does it glide or autorotate? Does it float? what happens if a wire(s) comes undone inflight - Quads DO NOT glide, and do NOT float - if any single wire is compromised (shorted or disconnected or over-volted), or battery is exhausted, or a prop breaks inflight from a previous crash, then the Quad will immmediately tumble to the ground - if you ever see this happen cut power to stop the motors/prop mid air before gnd contact. To prevent this from ever happening you need to be very clear about several things - during assembly make sure every single connection/wire/joint is correct - do not guess - do not assume anything - if you crash check all wires and replace the props - after intial assembly(or any later crash) do a functions test without props - test motor responses and RC control and test your failsafe, all done with props off. Then do a FULL-Power hand test (wear eye protection) called a hand maiden - this power test will confirm all power systems are working 100% correct at WOT (wide open throttle). If any power system hesitates/stuttters or stops - then immediately shut down and do NOT fly - see below notes on how to find any problem in the power train
Question - When i installed the Mobius and the optional nylon HQPROP 6" - 6"x4.5props they come very close to the Mobius? Answer = the include compression band should go over the rear 4-Balls Gello isolator - see photos - this does 2 things 1) tilt the Mobius up for better forward vision in fast flight 2) clears the props - = if your running this combo consider using the 5x4 Triples - ; or if your still having issues, use a prop balancer and cut 3mm off the tips and balance them up for the ultimate setup
Question - Knife PIDs ? What is the best starting point for PIDs? Answer = fly it the way it comes - We have pre-loaded the correct PIDS - don't reload code from the general AIR pages !! PARIS AIR have default PIDS for any Quad from 750mm size or 450 size - these PIDs are NOT tuned for the Scarab Knife 5x3 or even 6x45 or 6x3 props - so to see the BEST/Recommended PIDS - see the photo section above and set your gains to match the Airframe - in this case the Knife PIDs are above. Set these yourself using a oLED (AIR must be re-coded for oLED - see wiki for oLED) or your PC/Mac if you have a GPS - or a n Android phone you can use EZGUI APP - Then tune from there. PIDs are best left alone until your 10th flight.
Motor care and set-up
after a few hours flying ; apply 1 small drop of Oil to bearings every 3 hrs with a syringe & dulled-down-needle ; use 20W50 new clean motor oil
DO NOT pull on the lead wires - not ever
Apply INOX to GBC connectors before pressing them into the ESc by hand - don't use tools to handle GBC or ESC you will break them - use your fingers and INOX
Do NOT bend lead wires back and forth - risk breaking
Use short M2*5mm screws - long screws will go in too far and CUT the windings !!! - risk - cutting insulation
Question - A motor suddenly stutters - was ok before? - Cut throttle - don't fly - Motors won't just stop by magic unless they are damaged/bent/wiring compromised by mis-use or crash impact
Motors are wound Delta - so each GBC has a pair of thinner inner wires ; one may be broken/pulled/bent internally in a crash ; or the wrong (too long) screws used ;too-long screws can cut the windings
check to see if a lead wire has been broken - pulled - snapped off near the GBC side - re-solder the GBC if unsure - use FLUX
check you have not pulled out any of the ESC JST connectors in a crash
ESC control motors and a motor hesitating can be an ESC - check that ESC to see if female GBC are broken from a crash - the ESC GBC must be firm on the pcb - you may have bent/snapped the ESC outlets off the PCB from excess man-force - use INOX lube to ensure the GBC slide in without force
Heat - motors running 5x4x3 or 6x4.5 props are limited to 10 secs of full power WOT per minute flown - high amps cause heat - overheating a motor can cause the wires to melt and magnets to loose their magnetism
Only need one ESC BEC connected after calibration- see above in "instructions" - you only need one BEC red wire
if the motor is jammed - open it and check the magnets are not damaged or broken from a crash
In some instances people have damaged their motors by letting FOD enter, something ferrous/magnetic get sucked inside by magnetic attraction force, from their work bench - then when they spin it up with the FOD spinning around inside :( (foreign object - damage) thereby cut the windings - be very careful with FOD
Great quality, great service
Posted by justin huntress on 16th Jul 2016
I have had the Scarab Reconn for a few years and it has never let me down, this is my first racer, very happy with the Knife 270 build, basically flying great without any tweaks as supplied. Very impressed, thanks!
Sweet FPV Racer
Posted by Dominik on 13th Nov 2015
The Scarab Kife is an awesome little FPV Racer. The communication with the support team was great and helpful. The delivery was for free and took 3 days to Germany. The price is really fair but consider additional 100€ for tax and duty to DE gov. Overall a must have.
Great machine to get low and fast!
Posted by Will on 6th Nov 2014
Right from the start you can tell you are working with a well thought out and engineered machine. The airframe was posted promptly and arrived well packaged ready for a quick assembly. The Youtube build videos are a great starting point but the ability to tweak the layout to your style of flying really appeals to me. I wanted a deeper frame to put my fat fingers in and also use the aluminium standoffs to box off my battery from the electronics and still have the battery protected in the body of the machine - I've puffed so many batteries having them externally mounted! Those days are over!
The plug and play electronics (no soldering) is also a great plus to aid assembly but to also change out anything you break quickly and easily in the field so you can punch another battery through the machine and keep flying!
The externally mounted and bullet proof Paris 2.0 controller is a lot better than having the board tucked/crammed into the frame with wires other components transferring vibrations to your board. The full metal jacket adds an inertial mass that helps keep things happy and is a neater solution than 3D printed plastic covers etc I have previously tried and the cables all come out in a single direction making it a lot easier to route the cables neatly and also if you crash they can pull out in the same direction compared to others that tend to rip the %$# out of wires and boards when it really hits the fan.
The Knife is really nice to fly and a fast machine - the reduced weight yet still strong transfers into a really fast and agile machine. Aerobatics with the knife are awesome - the roll rate is magic and it keeps its flying energy a lot better than all the minis I have flown due to the lower profile frame - the other bricks tend to stop dead when you flip etc due to the battery mounted way off from the rotation axis. It is also really stable and smooth in the slower speeds making it a lot of fun in tight spots shooting for impossible gaps.
I push hard when I fly and crash a lot. I have found the pricing very reasonable, stock levels high, postage prompt and the well designed components are really easy to quickly swap out and keep flying. Breaking an arm requires two hex tools and a cable tie - 4 screws on the motor to remove it, snip the cable tie and unplug the esc, 3 screws on the arm and its out ready to replace - 5min max and its a neat refit compared to most field swaps I've seen. Similar with the esc replacement you have three plugs, no soldering and a cable tie plus it takes a second to swap if the motor is the wrong direction.