HERO MODE - this is otherwise known as "ACRO" mode - only gyros are active - Cynical noobs will say they are not interested in acrobatics - well neither are we for the sake of it - but like judo or karate you eventually realise why the master is forcing you to learn skills - master this mode and you will have a "core" skill for life - non-pilots who fly is other "modes" like GPS/Atti will never progress even after years - and will form a dependancy on artificial "help" - if you master HERO mode at the beginning of your days then you will dominate these pilots in every possible way - respect and results will follow.
ARM - we dont recommend arm by switch - reason - it's a waste of 4 possible switch positions other than off - if you have 2*3 ways switches - use them for other stuff below. We recommend to arm with sticks, motor stop at arm then trim up using throttle trim - this will give you gyro lock in all mode from 100% to 0% and prevent accidental mid air dis-arming
ANGLE Mode - this activates the Accelerometer - self levelling mode - (was called LEVEL or ACC before) - its a beginner mode "L" plate mode used for hovering - we dont recommend you Fly in this mode - its designed for hovering directly above your position - where it's otherwise difficult to see small attitude changes. Its useful for FPV take off and land IF your experienced - do not use this for your first noob maiden take off as it confuse you - the acc is sensitive to 0.1° tilt and will rev the props on the downhill side like buggery until its gets its 0.1° offset sorted - its a required mode for RTH
HORIZON Mode - this is a cool new mode - when the cyclic stick is near the centre the Acc is activated - but when you want to fly fast forward or even do Acrobatic flips - then its gyros only - love this new mode!
BARO - The Baro is safely tucked away in the dark at the bottom of the PCB - If you keen you can also cover the front USB witha small piece of black nitto tape to prevent drizzle or rain getting in :) Place BARO underneath and inside prevents erroneous barometric pressure waves from speed or wind and also blocks lights entering the BARO - use this mode to hold Altitude - 2.2 is the first open source release of this code to combine AccZ (G readings) with BARO info and provides a 300mm height hold in a well setup scarab. We use it for parking and RTH - obviously we can fly better than any baro itself so we dont use it to hover - use throttle for that. Its great for high ALT parking at a longer distance as well. DO NOT turnn BARO on until you are first established in the hover at 50% throttle - then turn BARO on in the hover - (never attempt to use BARO before takeoff as the software is not designed to control the engines unless you start the BARO in the hover first - again when ready to resume, then turn BARO off such as returning to land etc)
MAG - (when using PARIS GPS/MAG ONLY - not included - separate compatible product in the PARIS GPS mag itself ) - Compass or heading lock - be sure you have 1500 setup as the RC Tx Rudder - then when the rudder or yaw stick is centred - engage MAG - this will lock the heading. We dont recommend flying around with MAG on - reason - MAG will lock out if bank angle exceeds 20°. Mag is useful for doing towering climbs or descents where you are flat - and trying to shoot facing one direction - be sure to tune your airframe (by engine inclination) so you have zero latent yaw.
GPS RTH HOME - very useful - (requires GPS/External MAG - not included - be coded and connected - setup MAG/ANGLE and GPS home on the same switch position - BARO also if you prefer but only activate after take off when hovering or crusing - then use RTH to fly home - will return to the position where it was last armed - does NOT control throttle so be sure to use enough power to fly/hover. Importantly PARIS offers hared control (IMU and Pilot) during the return to home phase - it is NOT fully autonomous - this is a good thing as it allows the pilot to make inputs to avoid obstacles - without having to do a full manual reversion.
HEADFREE and HEADADJ - it is for pro's doing long range LOS or noobs who have no orientation skill. - it uses the MAG to provide orientation based on ARMED orientation. Headfree is forever linked to ARMED and HEADADJ to time when switch is flicked ON.
GPS HOLD - Do not attempt to take off in GPS modes, or even to fly around in GPS modes (a strange microcopter & dji drone brainwashing idea) Modes - For AIR GPS use -> Before take off look for the GPS sats aquired signal (solid blue LED on GPS with fast 3/sec green LED on GPS) Use GPS hold when established in a hover position, Make sure MAG and ANGLE are active first, then tune ANGLE MODE (also known as Acc trimming or stick banging) and use it like a handbake - ie get in the postion you want then flick the switch for PH when established at 50% throttle - Probably the best way is to combine it with BARO/MAG/ANGLE in the GUI column. GPS home is recorded each time you land and re-arm provided there are sufficient GPS Sats visable. GPS HOLD is not recommended for Multiwii Pilots as a replacement for you developing the skill of the human brain from hand-to-eye co-ordination with a flight-Simulator or practice on a real Scarab Quad or Triikopta - (If your an older guy we recommend WookM autopilot which will fly for you. Some people say naza naza naza but they have never tried WookM which is much better in the full-drone automatic Pilot dept than any cheapo naza.)
- the Failsafe (We disable this and use the Tx failsafe) ; and
- the motorstop functions (We use this function with Tx throttle trim) ; and
- the servo travel (We use 1100/1500/1900 in code) ; and
- the gimbal settings
- the eeprom PIDs tuning
- the memory saving functions
Attached hardware - This MultiWiicopter.com website contains itemised-wiki product information for each part attached to a PARIS AIR - so if you have a question about an "ESC getting hot" - go to that ESC page ; and search for the word "hot" relating to that ESC product - ie - on the relevant parts page on this website. There you will find info on that drill-down topic page.
Sign up - just post a picture of your setup/wiring/connections and your GUI screen capture & ask a question on the FORUM
- people will help you in a few hours - thank them - make friends - (dont be a forum luker loner - open source is built by team work) PARIS AIR is an Open Source product and this means support is NOT provided by us for the software - Most people need little or no support - but some people are never going to be able to understand it becuase they dont have the aptitude. Period.
For noob instal issues see Q&A at bottom of this page - scroll down
Important Note for power - WARNING
Supply voltage is 5v max - this power is supplied by ESC's - ie you have to connect your LiPo to the ESCs to power all functions ->ESC feeds 5v to PARIS AIR and the Futaba Rx ; the USB 5v only powers the CPU , not the GPS or the RX , nor an oLED ! - GPS 5v supply comes from the ESC 5v BECs onboard each ESC - the red wires - leave all red wires connected.
Never attach any 6v Heli uBEC - Never attach any 7.4Heli uBEC - 5.1v is max - above 5.4v you will blow/smoke the GPS and the PARIS AIR
NEVER attach any LiPo direct - No 3S 12v power ; No 4S 16v power is ever connected to any part of the board. 5.0->5.1v maximum comes from ESC
Never connect or disconnect LIVE ESC wires from a powered up PARIS ! Turn everything OFF first - regret is permanant - be safe - power off.
Before connecting the ESC make sure LiPo Power = off ! Connect the 4 ESC control wires with the white control wire at the top - The Red wire from the CarbonBird ESC will supply 5v. As per photo below. Then connect 4 ESCs to power-distribution-lead. CHECK Props = OFF ; Then connect main LiPo
Connecting Gimbal drivers (for servo gimbals only)
Connect A0->pitch ; A1->roll servo
Mounting with gel tape
Use only the supplied GEL based foam tape is the small thin strips provided - do NOT add extra tape - do not use other DIY tapes or 3m forum bollux methodes to attach it - do NOT use 3M white foam tape specifically because it's rubbish for vibration transfer - Use only the supplied Gel-foam tape any apply only as shown in these photos on this page in the geometric centre of the craft. Locate the Air with the USB arrow pointing forward and in the dead centre of your Quad/Tricopter as close as possible to the C of G
Calibrate your Tx
Its possible to calibrate a PARIS with the oLED if oLED code is active ie QuadX with no GPS. If you dont have an OLED then Connect via USB Micro to your mac/pc (see bottom of page for PC issues) - (for Mac OSX close the keyboard dialogue - red dot - if it appears as its not a keyboard) Also connect one ESC with no motor to provide 5v for the Rx and or GPS if connected. Download the MultiWii GUI v2.3 - here
- install it and run the App "MultiWiiConf2.2" - click on the USB comms port which represents the AIR. Press start. You will see data bottom left for the sensors which are coded active and top-right your Rc Rx channels data - alter your Tx mid-points to give 1500
. Alter your end-points in the Tx to be lows less than1900 - re-chech midpoint still 1500 - check for reversals; blue bars should move the same way as the sticks
- Throttle and Elev the same way with the antenna facing right. Select your GUI boxes.
MAG Compass & GPS install (this applies if ordered with a GPS - otherwise if added later, then re-load new GPS/MAG version of code first)
The MAG/compass and GPS require 5v power from the ESC to function (not USB power which only powers the CPU). Make sure you fully build your quad - have everything turned on and the LiPo is position. Make sure the PARIS MAG/GPS is 80mm away from other devices. Props off - TX on - Multicopter final checks for all wires connected correctly - white ESC wires are at the top - all ESCs are syncronised and learning curves done - not wires shorted to airframe - place the Quad 100% level - dont move it - Connect main LiPo to the ESC -> this will power up the AIR - then connect USB last using our 2m USB cable - sold separately (not included) - then start GUI - Then press CALIB_MAG - led will flash rapidly for 30secs - rotate the entire multicopter 360° XYZ (keep it 900mm from PC, phones, metal, iron etc - and 5m from cars toolboxes or metal wall frames) - When the LED stops blinking the MAG lines will all jump a bit on the graph - this is the new aircraft calibration. Then check the GUI shows the airframe 100% level as actually 100% level - otherwise set it down 100% level and press CALIB_ACC - wait 6 secs - the GUI will reset and should show for ACC values of 0/0/512 approx.
Always do a hand maiden - hold the Quad safely by the centre and fly it in your firmly gripped hand to check everything - it's soooo lame to watch people tipping over aircraft on a maiden because they are afraid of it and have it sitting on the ground - hold it ! Wear safety glasses and gloves by all means - but just like a mud crab - if you hold it correctly it cannot hurt you. Common noob mistake is to put the wrong engine ESC connector on the wrong pins - this causes the quad to strongly flip in roll or pitch ; check first ! Make sure no vibration is present. If you feel vibrations in your hand they can get to the IMU & GPro. Re-check the balance of your props and motors and the that you did not man-bend your collects.
Make sure all advanced modes are "OFF" and all centres are 1500 in GUI - Take off and go up to 2m
- dont try to hover at 50mm - the ground cushion effect will cause you to skate all over the place - even expert pilots avoid this zone - go up to 2m and hover there in free air in an open field away from all people... check for any residual yaw - note it - then land and tilt the engines to give a "zero" yaw result - If you experience random twitch behaviour - land ; re-balance your props and motors properly
- check that you have not bend any collets? - and check/confirm your LPF in the code sketch to 10Hz; clear eeprom; reload code with 10Hz
LPFilter (check the Code you are loading is #define MPU6050_LPF_10Hz
or try even 5Hz if your prop balance is really bad.) Originally we test flew AIR with 20hz LPF and had great results with 100% pro-balanced props - but in the market we found some noobs are not balancing props correctly or well - so now we ship it with a duller 10Hz LPF to cater for poor balancing skills - the LPF basically screens out poor balancing (but will NOT deal with completely unbalanced props, sorry, not possible) - Realise the penalty is a lower LPF "dulls" down the flight responses a lot. If you dont have prop balancing skills or dont like prop balancing - Dont get into multicopters at all.
The maiden flight usually involves hovering tail-in and checking all controls are operating well XYZ and then progressing to figure 8 moves and eventually nose-in moves. After landing check all motors temps are "warm" only - and all ESC are normal temp (not so hot you cannot hold your finger on them). Optional 4-Balls IMU anti-vibe
mount can be fitted to a PARIS AIR here
(or any other IMU with prop-vib-out-of-balance-issues)
For 32u4 select "Leonardo" in Arduino - you can reverse the LED pin status for the GND trigger wire by commenting IN this line
/*********************** Promicro version related ****************************/
/* Inverted status LED for Promicro ver 10 */
For Triikopta +GPS -> we are now have a code reduction to allow Triikopta + GPS to function together in the memory space of the 32u4 CPU (headfree code is disabled saving 400bytes)
For Triikopta - be sure to connect a C1 CAP to the spare A0 or A1 pin to prevent brown out from servo peak amp loads !
Question - I am havig PC Issues on Win7 or Win8 - cannot seem to connect to PARIS AIR?
This is usually failure to load the correct usb drivers in WINDOWS - so here is the noobs guide to your PC setup
- Download and Install Arduino 1.0.5 (reason is it includes usb drivers for Leonardo even if you never use Arduino)
http://arduino.googlecode.com/files/arduino-1.0.5-windows.exe - install it - restart
- Follow the instructions on this link below, on how to make sure your Win Device Manager is using the correct USB drivers for Arduino Leonardo
- check that you see the comm port number for Leonardo - make a note of it - comm number is different on each PC becuase Windows creates "vitual Ports" each time - so, ours is comm15 - most likely your comm number will be Comm3 or such
- Download the JAVA GUI v2.3 here http://www.multiwiicopter.com/product_images/pdf/MultiWiiConf_23_Paris.zip
- UnZip it to desktop -> open the folder MultiWiiConf_Paris and sub-folder called application.windows32 ->double click on the JAVA app called ->MultiWiiConf
- If MultiWiiConf does not run at all then you may need to install JAVA on your PC - security setting may stop you - you are responsible for security - your desicion http://java.com/en/download/index.jsp
- Now click on the exact same Comm port (in this example Comm15) -> press START - -> you will see the data lines logging data from the Sirius sensors and the green LED will blink fast (if you have a GPS connected - be sure to power the AIR with 5v because USB only powers the AIR not the GPS) . GPS does not work inside buildings - if you see I2C errors then your GPS is not connected or not powered up - NEVER CONNECT ESC unless all power is off - Make sure the white ESC wires are at the top - for GPS information see http://www.multiwiicopter.com/products/gps-multiwiicopter
- The AIR board is already programmed, checked, calibrated and PIDS are set - dont change anything you dont understand !
- If things dont appear to work on your PC its 99.9% most likely a PC problem - Do not assume the AIR is faulty - Do not reload raw code! stay calm ... start again ... - once you get the drivers working, study the gui - try to understand what it is telling you - do not change boxes or pids without knowledge.
- The main reason to open the JAVA GUI is to confirm you RC midpoints 1500 and endpoints 1095/1905 - and check your switches do what you expect. If you purchased your Futaba radio from us - we already did this.
- press STOP -> CLOSE COMM
Question - All my ESC's beep all the time non stop?
ESC will beep to WARN you the THROTTLE is not at ZERO - the ESC can be taught (as a group of 4 or 6 or 8 ESC) the correct ZERO point in a process called "ESC learning throttle ranges" - see Noobs Guide - Pg11/12
Noobs sometimes assume the throttle is at ZERO when its actually at FULL -> 1900+ - when connected to the GUI - you should see a value of 1095 at low throttle position; You must redo the throttle learning after first setting the Rx THrottle channel to 1085-1095uSec. On other AutoPilots like PARIS v4r6 it can also happen if your main LiPo in not connected and you only have USB - but the PARIS AIR is powered separately
Question - My Receiver and GPS have no power? Why?
Its' important that you understand the different voltages in play 1.
FPV gear 12.0v
Paris Sirius™ AIR GPS, RCRx 5.0v
; 4. USB 5.0v power to CPU only- So there are 3 main DC buses on your Multicopter (+ USB if connected) - You must learn where/how power flows. Your PC USB carries a limited 5v supply - So PC USB (if connected) powers only the CPU and sensors (Not the GPS/Mag nor the Receiver nor the ESCs - OK so CPU only). The Main LiPo Cell, the big black LiPo carries 3S or 4S - so somewhere between 12v-16.8v and this goes direct to the Power Distribution Lead PDL (or Voltair depending on your Scarab) - the PDL feeds this 16.8v out to each of the ESCs. The ESCs each have a 5v Linear voltage reg in them making a safe 5.0v for the GPS/Mag and the Receiver via the red wires. Full LiPo raw voltage Power also goes to the ANDROMEDA PDL - Andromeda has 2*12v FPV regulators in it - mark "FPV" ; so Devices like FPV camera and FPV Video Tx need 12v. If your not sure use a DMM to measure voltage. NEVER connect anything at random. Never connect wires reversed polarity (red = +ve and Black = -ve) Infact we teach never to blindly push any connectors together - slow down, check red=red ; check black=black ; confirm voltage bus is correct - props are off - Check Tx is on and all switches set and safe - then power up the copter. Never pull any wire by the wire , grip the connector and rock it slightly as you pull or push it! Use lanolin
or Inox or Corrosion-X or Deoxit Gold
on all connectors. Never pull ESC connectors off the AIR while power is live ! Never push a live ESC connector onto PARIS - !
Question - I can see increasing I2C errors in the GUI?
Usually this means that you have coded ; or purchased a GPS coded AIR - but you have either a) Not powered up the GPS with 5v ; or b) not attached the GPS. MultiWii software cannot tell if a device is connected or not - but the software expects to see GPS data when requested - and if the GPS is either OFF or diconnected when the code (SKETCH) says GPS is enabled - then it will produce a stream of I2C error - connect & power the GPS
Question - How do I know what modes I am in?
Noobs must familiarise themselves with switches on their RC Radio TX - by connecting the copter to USB and the PC GUI interface you can see on the PC screen (or Mac) the effect switches are having on modes
- the AUX1 and AUX2 blue bars will move to shown LOW/MED/HIGH and the corresponding L/M/H "boxes" ticked (click the upperleft quadrant of the small box) being WHITE (press WRITE to save) show the Modes turning green. Remeber we dont recommend any modes are on for your hand maiden and first flight maiden - turn all modes off and fly with 3 AXIS - gyros only (called HERO mode - or acro mode) - if you dont have any prior experience use a FLIGHT SIM first
- You can also see what modes youre in with a oLED connected
- but you cannot have and oLED and GPS together
- its either one, or the other - and each requires different firmware hardcoded into AIR - Important point !!
Question - Flight Modes - ACRO vs Auto LEVEL - I want to know when and how to use modes?
Some Noobs want to use their wallet to buy their way to a full auto-pilot and have their first aircraft fully autonomous - so buying a "better" autopilot for their first copter - or get GPS so that GPS controls the aircraft for them - I understand a photographer just wants to shoot - but unfortunately putting a vehicle up in the sky is a big responsibility which rests on the shoulders of people - we call these people pilots - wether they are on the ground or upin the craft - so we STRONGLY advise you to get stick skills first. Many NAZA/WookM or Wii pilots who "form a dependancy" on autopilots damage their own progress and NEVER EVER become "Pilots" they are like drug addicts addited to robotic-autopilots - and don't fool anybody except themselves
the real JOY of the multiwiicopter PARIS ACRO system is the amazing combination of smooth 100% control with full stability only PARIS offers - hard to explain - it's just amazing how the basic gyros only flight mode - called ACRO - handles really well - its far more satisfying than robotic-interfering autopilot level modes - in these other highly automated "modes" - especially those designed to grow market share, you feel like a cab passenger in New York - you can basically direct the Cab to go where you want but your in no noubt that your NOT the driver - Well with Multiwiicopter hardware/software it's the opposite - in ACRO mode (ACRO = fail name - should be called AWESOME mode or Real Pilot HERO mode) you have absolute and complete control - yet its smooth predictable and stable - MultiWii HERO mode is much crisper than DJI manual mode. ALL the team pilots at MultiWiicopter.com fly in ACRO (HERO) mode - almost all the time. All professional stick men - "PILOTS" learn to fly - for real. All multicopter fly better in GYRO mode with the BARO and the ACC disabled. Beginners and auto-pilot addicts use modes all the time.
OK - what to do ? First off fly Mode 2 - I am a real Helicopter pilot/instructor - so the other modes are like weird to me - sorry mode 1 guys - but as per a real Heli Pilot - right hand controls X&Y and left hand controls Z axis
Question - How do you do Transmitter set-up
I set on the switch above throttle FUTABA SB (or the right stick on some Tx) this switch controls ACRO/LEVEL - down is ACRO - up is LEVEL on.
Then on 3 position stitch on right side FUTABA SC - up off/mid MAGon/ down/MAG & BARO on (if GPS is fitted = up off/MIDPH/Down RTH)
I fly 95% in ACRO - I use LEVEL mode only for
- High hover parking while looking at something (my ground station LCD)
- I use LEVEL mode for Take-off on FPV video goggles - FPV - when in sloping or patterned area with no obvious level horizon line - first 10m climb out - then switch back to ACRO pilot mode
- Landing on FPV Goggles - FPV - last 10m to touch down
- Crash recovery - if lost orientation - crash recovery panic is a) power up 70% b)hit switch above LEVEL on c)release right stick to centre it
I use MAG for level hover heading lock - MAG does not work when tilted more than 20° - erratic readings - don't go flying around at high bank angles in MAG locked mode. - Calibrating a MAG means press the button and then rotating the Quad XYZ 360° in 30 secs
I use BARO - for high hover parking at 100 feet up above my head (in calm wind - otherwise it will go downwind) - its not ultra sonic - use your eyes/brain/hands to hover the aircraft - you don't need an auto plit for this - get more stick time and get your skills developed.
GPS - For PARIS GPS we use this for Return to Home - if your under a lot of pressure and too far away to establish orientation - sun in your eyes etc - flick RTH on - As soon as it get close and spins around - turn RTH OFF
Question - I have flown a NAZA - Is this better than a NAZA?
Answer = Holistically MikroKopter& DJI approaches drones totally differently and assumes you never wish to :- a) learn to be a pilot b) actually fly it fully yourself
c) will go for the easy option me-airborne-today option (even if the long term outcome is negative skill growth and risk high)
DJI is founded by people who are not even pilots (1 marketer, 1 engineer) - This is evidenced by dji disabling access to manual mode by default. NAZA phantom only comes with GPS and ATTi (manual mode is hidden) - with phantoms now flying 100% with GPS before takeoff (with fly away consequences). Unlike AIR which has a very true and crisp maunual mode, NAZA phantom in manual mode feels really un-responsive/bad when used(they NEVER expect you to be able to use it). On the other side of the approach to drones is PARIS AIR using MultiWii open source code design by pilots, for pilots - This software assumes you want to learn lots of new things and you want to develop pilot Skills - starting with a flight-SIM Simulator
and really learning to be a pilot of RC (equates to not needing the floaty wings to swim in the pool- look mum i am swimming with float wings - no thats not swimming - if they pop you will drown) - if you think you were flying
your NAZA - sorry but you were not - NaZA fies itself and the tea Lady can do what you do, nothin learnt=nothin gained (we accept some people dont want to fly and that is why we offer those customers the naza)- in Naza / Phantom Atti mode still only gives you partial indirect control of motors and height holding is not even controlled by you, nor is vector compensation in turns - so naza owners usually struggle to learn anything post-naza and infact crash when try to fly a full pilot multicopter gyros only - A naza operator over a year will loose any skills they previously had to be RC pilots. NAZA pilots dont even understand RC setup as it is hidden from them. We dont recommend any NAZA operator assume he can fly a PARIS - sorry - pilot skills development takes time and effort... your decision to become a pilot or stay an operator, but past experience is ;easy road ≠ best road ; and naza is never ever intended to develop any skills in the pilot dept - PARIS is the opposite. Once you really learn to fly - you have something far more valuable - something you can depend on - your human skill set.
Using the Tx sticks to operate the PARIS
Set the Throttle to OFF/LOW (and check the GUI 2.3 to be sure your RC radio is not reversed either) - After connecting the LiPo - The ESCs will beep to indicate they are powered but not armed -ESC's cannot arm on power-up with PARIS AIR. The embedded software prevents this and requires you arm with a stick combination below The red LED comes on (steady) on the CPU board showing the board has power. After connecting the LiPo (or USB) the green CPU LED will flash for 5 secs then go OUT If the LED blinks green (fast) but won't stop blinking - then the Rx is not powered by 5v (an Rx cannot get sufficient PWR from some USB! It must be powered by 5v from at least one BEC).If the green LED still blinks green (fast) but won't stop blinking -then the Rx is not connected to the correct PARIS/warthox THRO pin correctly. The ESCs cannot calibrate as a multi-engine-group because the default state of the CPU->ESC is Dis-armed for all engines. You need to calibrate ESC throttle-learning range as a separate exercise -below
If the ESC's beep-non-stop then they are not connected to the PARIS board ESC pins or the Rx is incorrectly connected or the Rx/PARIS sees you do not have your throttle to zero.
If your copter goes out of radio-range it may cause harm - if still powered - Take the precaution to program in the FAILSAFE condition to protect people/property. Do not skip this step.
Bind your failsafe (Read your Radio manual - FAILSAFE) on the Tx with power/Throttle DESCEND failsafe condition. You might decide to set the failsafe power to 40% throttle so the aircraft descends in a controlled descent - recommended if understood - For Example on FrSky - set sticks as above (or THRO to 40%) - then Press the Rx button - 2 green flashes on the Rx itself - done. Failsafe can also be set in MultiWii Software (this option is NOT recommended - Use only for ultra basic or legacy Tx's like turnigy 9x - if your Tx has failsafe Like all JR/Futaba/FrSky- use hardware failsafe in the Rx). When you turn your Tx OFF in a test the Failsafe - should return the Copter to level and min-throttle -
NOTE : If you use a 33%-40% power (controlled descent setting) be aware that if you switch your radio off while the PARIS armed - then you will initiate a 1/3 powered condition! This is why the Radio must go "on" first , and "off" last.
You must understand this concept fully and realise the word failsafe - does not mean you can be an idiot yahoo - sorry - you still need to understand the consequences of your chosen "failsafe" condition - and You will be deciding what YOUR Radio "pre-set" will do when it cannot receive a signal. You are still the Pilot in command - YOU are responsible to decide how you will handle failsafe above.
Arming - Learn to recognise that your multiWiiCopter is ARMED. In MultiWii 2.3 or later there are several safety no-arm "blockers" (for safety)- you cannot ARM if tilted ; you cannot arm if BARO is on ; you cannot arm if GPS is on. to ARM -> keep throttle below 1100 uSEC (off) then Hold right Yaw (or right cyclic) for 1 sec - you will see the LED come on - stays on SOLID
If the andromeda LEDs does not come on and stay on solid - then increase YAW travel on the Tx to 110% (see Transmitter Calibration procedure - above top) - or Check the THRO is not actually reversed by mistake (Futaba) - USE THE PC GUI it will reveal your actual numbers - if your stuck out in the field with no PC - then trim down a few clicks on the THRO trim. If it still won't arm connect FTDI and use the JAVA-Config (see below - install JAVA) to make sure the Throttle PWM is below 1100 (normal THRO range is 1095-1905) - In order to arm - the Wii CPU is looking for THRO and is a valuable guide to trouble-shoot a CPU which won't apparently arm.
Disarming - Learn to DISARM the ESC's before touching or approaching the Copter ESC's/Motors can start suddenly and the props can cut fingers and eyes - permanent injuries!! so With THRO OFF ; Hold the YAW stick LEFt for 1 sec ; then the CPU GREEN LED will go OUT and stay out
Gyro Calibration - Disarm the copter (see above) ; Place the Copter on a perfectly LEVEL LZ - it must be completely static - Check all Tx Trims = neutral - Stand back - With THRO off, Hold the YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ; release - you will see the GREEN LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out - The Gyro is now calibrated for gyro drift (at this ambient temperature) - Note : The Gyro on a PARIS board now auto-calibrates in first 4 secs after Powering up - in the outside air temps where you fly. However the Acc does not - see below. It still pays to know how to do a gyro Cal - and if you get any strange drifting behaviour - always do a Gyro Cal and an ACC Cal(below) - you do NOT need to re-calibrate more than once a month.
Accelerometer (Acc) Calibration - - you do NOT need to re-calibrate more than once a month. The PARIS is calibrated before shipping out, at 25°C - However if you Ops are at a different temp a temp bias can be introduced need a re-cal, so for your Ops temp set the Copter level 0.00° - Press CALIB_ACC - (after first Flying the Copter in ACRO mode - Trim out any YAW using motor tilt (3-5°) - Dont use Tx trim - all Tx trims must be 0) - - Land - Switch over the HORIZON or ANGLE mode - hover STILL air (no wind) - if the copter is drifting by more the 2° tilt the calibration is effected by temp and you need to do a field Acc Cal -> land - -
Disarm the copter (see above) ; ensure the Copter is on a perfectly LEVEL LZ - it must be completely static -
Confirm the DISARMED LED is OFF - Hold Full THRO/YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ;
release - you will see the GREEN LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out - The Acc is now calibrated for LEVEL mode (at this ambient temperature) - The ACC on a PARIS/warthox board is the Nunchuk®.
Accelerometer (Acc) 2° Trimming - Also called auto-LEVEL trimming - FIRST do after the GYRO & ACC calibrations and normal ACRO trimming (see above). LAND.
Switch over to LEVEL mode (Gear Switch).
Take off and mentally note the way the copter wants to drift - DO NOT TRIM THE TX
- Land - The final ACC trimming procedure (below) is this -DISARM (see above - the Green LED will go OFF) Move the THRO to the 'Learn Position - full up) - in this example the copter was moving back and right - so ; using stick-banging - move the cyclic (right stick) up once (led blinks) - then left once (led blinks) - these alterations are saved to the CPU memory. ARM again - hover and repeat the process until the copter hovers 'level'. Each Stick-bang = 0.1°