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  • Carbonbird 3200kv 2205 Race Motor 275w 25g CW/CCW - for Knife 200

Carbonbird 3950kv 2205 Race Motor 275w 25g CW/CCW - for Knife 200

$14.99
Shipping Weight:
135.00 Grams
Stock Remaining:
48


Product Description

275w 25g FPV motor with wide 22mm stator 2205 provides lite-weight and high torque - for 200mm class 4" HQ tapered props  category - This new 2016 motor features thicker CNC shell case on the bell - to resist impact from FPV 

Question - Whats the difference between the 2203 125w Red, and this 2205 motor on a Scarab Knife 200 - which is best?  It's a good question - this 2205 motor has larger magnets and is crash hardened - able to handle a lot more AMPS - more watts -  the down side is it will suck the LiPo faster  - here is the comparison data for the 2203 vs 2205 - same prop shows the power:weight ratio of a 480g drone at 100% throttle achieves 3:1 over a lower 2:1 for the smaller 2203

 carbonbird-2203-3100kv-prop-thrust-data.jpg

the Race motor (below) produces 510g thrust - compared to the std motor above 

2205-3200kv-specs.jpg

 



Above - KarlosVonTrap flies the Scarab Knife 200mm Quad with these 2205 motors and 5x4.5x3 props

Specifications

  • KV 3950
  • Configuration 12N14P
  • Stator Diameter 22mm*5mm  2205
  • Shaft Length 10mm (for prop and 8mm ø nut)
  • Shaft Diameter 5mm/M5
  • Motor Dimensions(Dia.*Len) Φ27×15mm bell (motor 27mm height including Prop shaftPA)
  • Motor Mounting - 12mm Ø M2 (Warning - make sure screws do NOT penetrate the windings)
  • Weight (g) 25g with prop nut fitted (PA is integrated in design)
  • ldle current(10)@10v(A) 0.6A
  • No.of Cells(Lipo) 4S on 4" prop  ; ( check Amp limits below)
  • Max burst current LIMITS (A) 3 secs 16 amps - 15sec cool down at mid throttle <7 amps
  • Max. efficiency current (2-8A)>83%
  • internal resistance 0.150 Ω

 

Includes

1 x Carbonbird™ 3000kv red 2205 Motor ; 25mm wires ; nil GBC (can be used CW or CCW) - for Knife 200mm size drone 

1 x M5 Nyloc nut ; for 9mm tool ø (tool excluded)

Note : see photos  

For BLHeli 14.4 or later using 18 or 20a OPTO -> on 4S be sure to set DEMAG to high - further info HERE - set timing to MED-LO
best suited to these 4"  props HERE

Motor care and set-up 

  • apply 1 small drop of Oil to bearings every 3 hrs with a syringe & dulled-down-needle ; use 20W50 new clean motor oil
  • DO NOT pull on the lead wires - not ever
  • Do NOT bend lead wires back and forth - risk breaking
  • Use short M2*5mm screws (excluded) - long screws will go in too far and CUT the windings !!! - risk - cutting insulation
  • Avoid hard impacts / Striking the motors - sudden impact can damage a motor if dropped / impacted /crashed - the magnets may be damaged / loosened 
 
My motor suddenly stutters - was ok before? - Cut throttle - don't fly - Motors/ESC won't just stop by magic unless they are damaged/wiring compromised by mis-use
  1. Motors are wound Delta - so each GBC has a pair of 2 small inner wires ; most likely one thread has been broken-pulled-bent internally if the wrong (too long) screws did not cut the windings 
  2. use a DMM  http://www.multiwiicopter.com/products/uni-t-pen-sized-dmm
  3. check the internal resistance Ω between all 3 input wires - 2 at a time - 3 readings should be identical 0.150Ω - what do you get Ω?
  4. check to see if a lead wire has been broken - pulled - snapped off inside - visually look in
  5. Noobs often mistake a motor problem for what is actually a broken ESC - physical damage to the ESC from man-force/crashing - make sure you have not broken your ESC
In some instances people have damaged their motors by letting FOD enter, something ferrous/magnetic get sucked inside by magnetic attraction force, from their work bench - then when they spin it up with the FOD spinning around inside  :(   (foreign object - damage) thereby cut the windings - be very careful with FOD
 

QUESTION - One of my motors stops before the others on shut down? How can i adjust it?

the shaft depth can be set any time in a few secs - this controls the friction setting - by varying the distance slightly between the circlip end and the grub screws (2)

a slight difference in friction has no real effect on flying - but can be set any time if needed
  1. leave the motor connected to the copter - prop and all
  2. - use a 0.05" hex tool - undo the 2 black grubs 1 turn  CCW - 
  3. loosen the axial play of the bell by 1/1000" (freeplay) - pull the bell slightly out toward the prop 
  4. re-tighten the 2 grub screws.

 

Excludes

  • Excludes Props - Study the trust data  - recommended props are the HQProp 5x4 ; or the HQProp 5x4x3 also works well - choice of props depends on Total weight.  If you want this motor to perform best keep your Quad under the weights in the Quad column for 50% throttle. Remove weight. Be careful not to over prop or exceed amp limits above.
  • Excludes bolts - normally use the shortest bolts to sure the bolts dont penetrate the windings M2*5 Here
  • Excludes tools - a 9mm socket wrench/spanner is recommended to tighten the red nyloc nut ; grub screw 1mm hex (only required for full dis-assembly)
  • Excludes training - if you don't understand brushless motors - pls read the above  

 

Warranty

Do not exceed power burst limits above - Do not operate in dirt/dust -  1 year return to Carbonbird factory - Warranty specifically excludes damage caused by exceeding max amps limits or crashing, incorrect use of tools, incorrect pulling/breaking of lead-in wires, mis-use or poor lubrication of bearings* - claims for factory warranty require return of the product to us - at buyers shipping expense, for inspection - the decision of returns inspector is final.  

 

 


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