125w 18g motor with wide 22mm stator for torque - a Market-first July 2014 these new mini quad motors from Carbonbird are machined at 3° tilt for thrust-vector yaw torque. By vectoring thrust over at 3° (Tilt was first pioneered with the first Scarabs in 2011- later copied by dji) the Quad requires less RPM variation and yaw force is greater than a simple torque reaction - now taken it one step further by machining the motor at 3° itself - simply bolt down the motor and you have perfect vectoring without needing a digital tilt gauge ! As the wires exit from the side this means the pilot must mount the motor at motor positions 3 & 2 only CCW motors ( for the other 2 positions use 4.1 CW motors here ) - the motors feature lots of torque and power and a very low parts count with the inbuilt M5 shaft.
Question - Whats the difference between 125w Red/175w 1806 and 225w RaceSpecR on a Scarab Knife - which is best? It's a good question but there is no such thing as best motor - each motor has a diffent power (watts) and importantly different weight (inertia) - Men want and love power but "weight" is the enemy of motor performance and Quad inertia (both prop spool up/down times and overall flickability in al manoeuvres) - so the Reds are perfect for Freestyle and cruisin' and give longest smoothest flights achieved with lower "P" using lots less amps - the 1806 is an all rounder (cannot decide what you might do but bear in mind its difficult to repair) and the RaceSpec-R will win every drag race every time in an open field type social race, togh and strong. Each motor weight requires different PIDs.
- KV 2400
- Configuration 12N14P
- Stator Diameter 22mm*3mm 2203
- Shaft Length 10mm (for prop and 8mm ø nut)
- Shaft Diameter 5mm/M5
- Motor Dimensions(Dia.*Len) Φ27×14mm bell (motor 26mm height including Prop shaftPA)
- Motor Mounting - 12mm Ø M2
- Weight (g) 18.8g with prop nut fitted (PA is intergrated in design)
- ldle current(10)@10v(A) 0.7A
- No.of Cells(Lipo) 3S on 6" prop ; (can be run with 4S on a 5" prop - check Amp limits below)
- Max continuous current 10Amp 125W motor
- Max burst current(A) 30Sec 14A
- Max burst Power(W)30Sec 150W
- Max. efficiency current (2-8A)>83%
- internal resistance 0.150 Ω
1 x Carbonbird 2400kv mini-Motor ; 40mm wires ; 2.0mm GBC
1 x M5 Nyloc nut ; 9mm tool ø
Note : see photos
For BLHeli 14.1 or later using 18a OPTO -> be sure to set DEMAG to LOW - further info HERE
Motor care and set-up
- apply 1 small drop of Oil to bearings every 3 hrs with a syringe & dulled-down-needle ; use 20W50 new clean motor oil
- DO NOT pull on the lead wires - not ever
- Before pushing the GBC gold connectors into the ESC put one drop of inox Lube in the female ESC connector - INOX is the best for this HERE
- Do NOT bend lead wires back and forth - risk breaking
- Use short M2*5mm screws (excluded) - long screws will go in too far and CUT the windings !!! - risk - cutting insulation
- Avoid hard impacts / Striking the motors - sudden impact can damage a motor if dropped / impacted /crashed - the magnets may be damaged / loosened
My motor suddenly stutters - was ok before? - Cut throttle - don't fly - Motors/ESC won't just stop by magic unless they are damaged/wiring compromised by mis-use
- Motors are wound Delta - so each GBC has a pair of 2 small inner wires ; most likely one thread has been broken-pulled-bent internally if the wrong (too long) screws did not cut the windings
- use a DMM http://www.multiwiicopter.com/products/uni-t-pen-sized-dmm
- check the internal resistance Ω between all 3 input wires - 2 at a time - 3 readings should be identical 0.150Ω - what do you get Ω?
- check to see if a lead wire has been broken - pulled - snapped off inside - visually look in
- Noobs often mistake a motor problem for what is actually a broken ESC - physical damage to the ESC from man-force/crashing - make sure you have not broken your ESC
In some instances people have damaged their motors by letting FOD enter, something ferrous/magnetic get sucked inside by magnetic attraction force, from their work bench - then when they spin it up with the FOD spinning around inside :( (foreign object - damage) thereby cut the windings - be very careful with FOD
QUESTION - One of my motors stops before the others on shut down? How can i adjust it?
the shaft depth can be set any time in a few secs - this controls the friction setting - by varying the distance slightly between the circlip end and the grub screws (2)
a slight difference in friction has no real effect on flying - but can be set any time if needed
- leave the motor connected to the copter - prop and all
- - use a 0.05" hex tool - undo the 2 black grubs 1 turn CCW -
- loosen the axial play of the bell by 1/1000" (freeplay) - pull the bell slightly out toward the prop
- re-tighten the 2 grub screws.
- Excludes Props - Study the trust data below - recommended props are the HQProp 5x4 ; or the HQProp 6x4.5 ; 5x4x3 also works well - choice of props depends on Total weight. If you want this motor to perform best keep your Quad under the weights in the Quad column for 50% throttle. Remove weight. Becafeful not to over prop or exceed amp limits above.
- Excludes bolts - normally use the shortest bolts to sure the bolts dont penetrate the windings M2*5 Here
- Excludes tools - a 9mm socket wrench/spanner is recommended to tighten the red nyloc nut ; grub screw 1mm hex (only required for full dis-assembly)
- Excludes training - if you don't understand brushless motors - pls read the above
Prop Data - Note if running 4S BLHeli damped Lite - be sure to set DeMag to high
1 year return to Carbonbird factory - Warranty specifically excludes damage caused by exceeding max amps limits or crashing, incorrect use of tools, incorrect pulling/breaking of lead-in wires, mis-use or poor lubrication of bearings* - claims for factory warranty require return of the product to us - at buyers shipping expense, for inspection - the decision of returns inspector is final.