180w 21g motor with wide 22mm stator 2204 - This new 2016 Aussie CB motor features 2x thicker CNC shell case on the bell - to resist impacts from FPV Ops ; data from this motor matches/exceeds much more expensive motors in this class - Dual grub screw and 3rd gen design by CarbonBird AU. optimised for 5" prop drones on 4s 16.8v.
Question - Whats the difference between this 180w Red, the Tmotor 1806 175w 1806 and 225w RaceSpecR on a Scarab Knife - which is best? It's a good question but there is no such thing as best motor - each motor has a different power (watts) and importantly different weight (inertia) - Men want and love power but "weight" is the enemy of motor performance and Quad inertia (both prop spool up/down times and overall flickability in all manoeuvres) - so the Reds are perfect for Freestyle and the RaceSpec-R will win every drag race every time in an open field type race but they are less suited to freestyle moves Each motor weight requires different PIDs. This 2300/2204 is optimised for 4S and 5" props on Scarab Knife 240
- KV 2300
- Configuration 12N14P
- Stator Diameter 22mm*4mm 2204
- Shaft Length 10mm (for prop and 8mm ø nut)
- Shaft Diameter 5mm/M5
- Motor Dimensions(Dia.*Len) Φ27×14mm bell (motor 26mm height including Prop shaftPA)
- Motor Mounting - 12mm Ø M2
- Weight (g) 21.4g with prop nut fitted (PA is integrated in design)
- ldle current(10)@10v(A) 0.6A
- No.of Cells(Lipo) 4S on 5" tapered props ; ( check Amp limits below)
- Max continuous current 180W motor - 4s = 10amps
- Max burst current LIMITS (A) 3 secs 18 amps - 15sec cool down @<7amps REQUIRED; or 5 Sec @ 14A ; 20 sec cool down REQUIRED
- Max burst Power - if exceeded will overheat the core windings/magnets and cause permanent damage - pilots who hold WOT for longer periods RISK SERIOUS side effects to the DC systems ; symptoms include sudden power out, flips and/or ground loop damage via current routing to devices such as BECs
- Max. efficiency current (2-8A)>83%
- internal resistance 0.150 Ω
1 x Carbonbird™ 2300kv red mini-Motor ; 25mm wires ; nil GBC (can be used CW or CCW)
1 x M5 Nyloc nut ; for 9mm tool ø (tool excluded)
Note : see photos
For BLHeli 14.4 or later using 20a OPTO -> on 4S be sure to set DEMAG to high - further info HERE
Motor care and set-up
- apply 1 small drop of Oil to bearings every 3 hrs with a syringe & dulled-down-needle ; use 20W50 new clean motor oil
- DO NOT pull on the lead wires - not ever
- Do NOT bend lead wires back and forth - risk breaking
- Use short M2*5mm screws (excluded) - long screws will go in too far and CUT the windings !!! - risk - cutting insulation
- Avoid hard impacts / Striking the motors - sudden impact can damage a motor if dropped / impacted /crashed - the magnets may be damaged / loosened
My motor suddenly stutters - was ok before? - Cut throttle - don't fly - Motors/ESC won't just stop by magic unless they are damaged/wiring compromised by mis-use
- Motors are wound Delta - so each GBC has a pair of 2 small inner wires ; most likely one thread has been broken-pulled-bent internally if the wrong (too long) screws did not cut the windings
- use a DMM http://www.multiwiicopter.com/products/uni-t-pen-sized-dmm
- check the internal resistance Ω between all 3 input wires - 2 at a time - 3 readings should be identical 0.150Ω - what do you get Ω?
- check to see if a lead wire has been broken - pulled - snapped off inside - visually look in
- Noobs often mistake a motor problem for what is actually a broken ESC - physical damage to the ESC from man-force/crashing - make sure you have not broken your ESC
In some instances people have damaged their motors by letting FOD enter, something ferrous/magnetic get sucked inside by magnetic attraction force, from their work bench - then when they spin it up with the FOD spinning around inside :( (foreign object - damage) thereby cut the windings - be very careful with FOD
QUESTION - One of my motors stops before the others on shut down? How can i adjust it?
the shaft depth can be set any time in a few secs - this controls the friction setting - by varying the distance slightly between the circlip end and the grub screws (2)
a slight difference in friction has no real effect on flying - but can be set any time if needed
- leave the motor connected to the copter - prop and all
- - use a 0.05" hex tool - undo the 2 black grubs 1 turn CCW -
- loosen the axial play of the bell by 1/1000" (freeplay) - pull the bell slightly out toward the prop
- re-tighten the 2 grub screws.
- Excludes Props - Study the trust data - recommended props are the HQProp 5x4 ; or the HQProp 5x4x3 also works well - choice of props depends on Total weight. If you want this motor to perform best keep your Quad under the weights in the Quad column for 50% throttle. Remove weight. Be careful not to over prop or exceed amp limits above.
- Excludes bolts - normally use the shortest bolts to sure the bolts dont penetrate the windings M2*5 Here
- Excludes tools - a 9mm socket wrench/spanner is recommended to tighten the red nyloc nut ; grub screw 1mm hex (only required for full dis-assembly)
- Excludes training - if you don't understand brushless motors - pls read the above
Do not operate in dirt/dust - 1 year return to Carbonbird factory - Warranty specifically excludes damage caused by exceeding max amps limits or crashing, incorrect use of tools, incorrect pulling/breaking of lead-in wires, mis-use or poor lubrication of bearings* - claims for factory warranty require return of the product to us - at buyers shipping expense, for inspection - the decision of returns inspector is final.