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  • CarbonBird™ Motor - NMB - 1175kv - 225w - 58g - normal shaft
  • CarbonBird™ Motor - NMB - 1175kv - 225w - 58g - normal shaft
  • CarbonBird™ Motor - NMB - 1175kv - 225w - 58g - normal shaft
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CarbonBird™ Motor - NMB - 1175kv - 225w - 58g - normal shaft

$9.99
Shipping Weight:
115.00 Grams
Stock Remaining:
29


Product Description

On special promotion USD12.99 now USD9.99 for a limited time only

 CarbonBird™ brushless 225W motors for 8" or 9" props -  feature long 230mm 20AWG silicon wires right from the core windings and factory installed 2.0mm Gold Banana connectors GBC long type. light weight - Custom wound copper packed in tight to give a kva of 1175ka, work well on 3S 12.4v using a 0850 prop or the 8040 triples or the 9050 triples or even the HQ 0950 e-Props.  Importantly -  high end NMB™ miniature metric bearings

Features:

  • Rubine Red/Black colour as per photos
  • True 225w motor made for Multicopters (tested to 280w peak)
  • Improved cooling for 2017
  • Larger main bearing
  • Superior windings 28Turns 12N14P,  1280kva measured
  • Full 285mm 20AWG multicore silicon wires with 2.0mm long GBC - see photo - females included in spares if req'd
  • Superior NMB™ bearings - USA
  • Light weight Bell - faster RPM changes
  • Designed by CarbonBird™ 
  • 5mm prop shaft adapter(up to 10mm thick prop)  / conical spinner nut (red)
  • 16mm and 19mm mounting holes M3 bolts - note - excludes button head M3 required -sold separately
  • Motor X-Mount supplied for 33mm holes - bevelled  3.5mm screws included for X if required
  • Works at Low/Medium timing with recommended CarbonBird 18a (aka Turnigy Plush) ESC - Minimum ESc is 18amp

Dimensions

  • 28 diameter x 25mm h ;
  • 3.17mm shaft Ø (1/8" inch)
  • 58g

 

Power Tests & Recommended Props

  • No load spec :12.07v 0.49amps 13.765rpm - tests = motor actual kv = 1280kv
  • Props tests - see below for recommended props for 3s and 4s
  • suits 8" (4s) or 9" (3s) props
Includes:
  • 1 x CarbonBird Motor with 23mm wires ; normal shaft - mount side -
  • 1 Prop-adapter 4 petals 5mm Ø  type 
  • 1 X-Mount 
  • 4 x M3 short bevel screws for X only 
  • 1 spare circlip, 1 spare shaft

Requires:

  • Button head bolts M3 for SCARAB mounts not included - available here
  • Bearings require one drop 10W50 oil every 10 hours running time - not included
  • grub screw requires loctite if replaced
  • We recommend you rough-up the shaft with a diamond tool HERE - before mounting a PA
  • For puller/tractor configuration ~ We recommend a drop of red Loctite™ is put on the 3.17mm shaft/PA  ; before installing the Prop Adapter if used as a tractor motor (as opposed to a pusher motor)
    to remove it - simply heat it to ~100°C for 15 secs and it will slip off
 
 
if you ever need them - our Spare bearings are HERE
carbonbird-bearings-redblack-series.jpg
 
 
 
 
 

Thrust Data - Prop selection 

carbonbird-1175kv-3s-8x5.png  carbonbird-1175kv-4s-8x5.png

 

carbonbird-1175kv-3s-9x5.png        carbonbird-1175kv-4s-9x5.png

 

Question - How do i reverse the motor shaft to come out the other side? Answer = watch this video 

 

Question - has this CarbonBird 1175kv motor been used in fixed wing VTOL? Answer = yes ; see the NASA video below

Setup & Maintenance:

  • Aviation requires discipline, inspection and risk analysis - brushless motors form part of the critical aircraft flight system and become your duty of care when purchased and built.
    • WARNING ! If a motor or prop fails a Quad or Tricopter Copter can fall from the sky and cause harm to person or property below - Always do a full pre-flight inspection on Quad motors ; A post flight temperature check for thermal stress (hot motor) - Schedule of maintenance you must perform includes : -
    1. Grub Screw - check the grub screw for security - /Remove and add Blue Loctite® to the shaft grub screw - make sure Loctite® does not enter any bearing!  Always heat the engine to 100°C (domestic hairdryer on hot) before trying to remove a grub screw held by loctite glue.  Loctite becomes very soft when hot.
    2. Collets ( = the aluminium shaft fitted over the steel motor shaft) - On recent Carbonbird motors - the collet is supplied pre-fixed with loctite glue - remove the spinner/washer/collar and feed the motor + collet through the engine mount - then re-assemble the collet.  the collet Loctite'd to the shaft - its supplied like this to stop noobs have the shaft come off because some new to engineering cannot understand how to tighten a collet, and incorrectly go flying on their maiden with the collet half tight ! -   problem is some noobs still DONT understand loctite glue - you have the HEAT loctite'd screws/collets to 100°C first (recommend a domestic ladies hair dryer on maximum heat -> - do not heat the magnets >100°C ) - once heated, then Loctite'd items come undone/out real easy - applying excess force to motor shafts and grub screws which are COLD is a the wrong way to do it - again, its not necessary to even remove the collet as it fits through the engine mount with the collar and spinner removed.  if you do want to remove one after a crash - then HEAT IT FIRST - it will slide off.   Note : a Collet must be attached to a motor shaft with loctite™ to ensure it won't release under vibration; to Remove a collet , remove the spinner, remove the prop and lower red collar, then first heat the inner collet to 145°C with a heat gun (avoid heating magnets) then the loctite will be very soft and the collet will release from the shaft - To remove dried loctite, use the solvent Acetone - normally just place the removed collet in acetone for 20 mins and it will be very soft and wash away easily. The collet/spinner must be torqued to sufficient pressure to hold the collet on the shaft - it should pass a 5kg "pull-test" 
  1. Ensure the Circlip is set (crimped) correctly to hold the shaft in place - inspect closely for any sign of looseness
  2. Carefully apply 1 small drop of OIL to each bearing every 5 hours flight time - with a syringe & needle (new SAE20-50 motor oil) - allow the oil to soak in for 1 min; wipe away all excess oil - oil traps abrasive dust!
  3. Avoid all dusty Landing/Takeoff zones - We recommend Ops from a dust-free rooftop LZ on a 4WD/SUV vehicle or a 1.5m circular plywood dust-free Helipad on the ground to prevent any dust ingress to the bearings.  Abrasive dust entering bearings will shorten the effective life dramatically - inspect the bearngs for wear and replace if worn -Spin the motor - Magnetic cogging will slow and stop the motor which is normal - check for any wear or abnormal sound/roughness/dryness or non-linear friction indicating a bearing failure. 
  4. Use high pressure air (can of comressed air - or air line) to clean any sand,dust, grass or dirt away from an engine after every flight
  5. Inspect the wires to ensure the insulation is in-tact
  6. Check that the collect (Prop-adapter) is tight and cannot be pulled off with 2kg force - Dont assume it's tight - check it in Pre-flight
  7. Use Blue Loctite® to mount the engine screws to the carbon/G10 engine holder.  Check the engine mounting screws never penetrate too far into the engine & short the winding wires
  8. Inspect the prop for any fatigue cracks or white stress lines - immediately repalce any prop suspected of weakness - Routinely replace props every 10 flight hours.
  9. Shaft must be replaced if bent - using a 3mm punch and tapped out - or shaft can be reversed by removing the grub screw and using a bench vise to push it further in and out the other side - then retighten the grub screw
  10. if the motor is observed to be showing some initial warning sign - AN INDICATOR - noted by the pilot but not considered to be a risk by the pilot - and he decided to continue flight ; consider fully the RISK ; this can cause subsequent engine failure and total loss of your aircraft if it has less than six engines. Be aware -
     
    Risk can lead to engine failure 
    • ingestion of FOD (foreign object damage) dirt, dust, stones or debris which can enter the motor during take off and landing - causing trauma (cuts) to the windings or insulation of the windings, damage to bearings
    • breakage of one or more of the internal lead-in stator winding wires by stress (pulling of the wires during ground handling or assembly) - can be caused in incorrectly handling a motor, crash impact tension, carry the craft by gripping the motor assembly wires causing a break inside a motor.
    • magnetic variation - de-magnetising of one or more magnets by placing the magnets on or against other motors/magnets or in magnetic fields - tapping against metal objects of the can of the motor - this partial de-magnetisation can cause the ESC to overheat the engine because the timing cannot be accurately determined by the ESC. Thermal run-away - engine overheats because it is effectively overloaded - Copter is too heavy.  Overheated magnets are permanently ruined.
    • dry-joints or inconsistent  loose push-connections/soldering between an ESC and a motor leading to timing faults - if one of the three connections is loose or not 100% soldered correct - Should you observe ANY motor hesitation or stutter on first power applied 10% throttle - immediately cut power - do not Power-up further or you will blow the ESC  - DO NOT FLY especially relevant for long wiring runs or self soldered joints - USE solder paste - use a Digital Multimeter DMM to check all 3 wires show the same Resistance in ohms - check the wires for breakage or shorts.  Save your ESC by careful observation of problem indicators.
    • Shorting of any motor wire(s) internally to the metal/carbon booms or too the airframe- INSULATION of ALL WIRES annd joints is vital.  - short of the insulation from sharp carbon edges not filed smooth during construction - leading to timing problems or stuttering - Should you observe ANY motor hesitation or stutter - DO NOT FLY - replace the motor /wires/ESC as applicable to the fault - Beginner fault to observe AN INDICATOR - such as hestition then continue to fly - delibrately blowing the ESc - leading to failure and a crash - Pro-Pilots discontinue flight/Land at the slightest hint(indicator) of a problem - because they realise that warnings are only given once. 
    • Poor bearing maintenance lubrication and/or exposure/ingress of abrasive dust leading to bearing breakdown
    • Failure to balance the motor/prop leading to wear and tear.  Check closely for security ; tighness of all componenets ; security of the grub screws, circlips and the bell.  Be vigilent to check for variations in your pre-flight on all engines
    • Post crash damage re-use - Pease consider a crash has trasferred forces to the motor. a sudden stop from Prop Stike can have drastic effects on a motor turning at 7000 rpm.  Check the bell and magnets to ensure they are 100% true and secure after crash.
     
    it's VITAL to monitor the temps of all engines on the post-flight check, avoid operations where FOD. dust is a risk and keep motors padded in transport.  It is also recommend to ground the aircraft and 100% locate the cause of any abnormal performance item.
Notes:
  • NEVER fit the propellers to a motor until AFTER you have fully Tested and set-up the motor and YOU understand that electric motors can start suddenly without any warning.  With proper understanding and maintenance the motors are safe.
  • NEVER run a propeller without FIRST balancing it on a magnetic balancer
  • Do a staic and a dynamic balance of all props for best results
  • Do a hand Maiden - before any flight maiden;  to observe all engines running normally under power applied condition - and all controls responding correctly.
  • During the hand maiden feel the airframe for vibration levels - there should be none - smooth - vibration indicates an out of balance motor/prop and must be traced and balanced.

 

 

 


Write your own product review

Product Reviews

  1. Great little Motors

    Posted by Jamie Ackland on 24th Jul 2016

    Brought these to replace older motors on my Scarab - Easy to drop in and setup. love Carbonbird stuff.. ! These 1175's are totally recommended for 3s Lipo and 4s builds


  2. No balancing reqired - smooth

    Posted by Andrew on 12th Feb 2016

    These 1175 CarbonBirds are TOP stuff - runs with very little cogging and true wattage rating. They cost a little more but CarbonBirds are WAY better motors. my tip - check soldering of power connectors if one motor stutters - most people will direct solder the wires to the ESC anyway.





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