AIR3 - an original AU design - PARIS Sirius™ AIR HERO•32 F3 - the third evolution of the only controller with inertial damping and 100% SPI tech since 2013-2016 - Software pre-installed BetaFlight (3.1.0) tuned for Scarab Knife drones - choose your mounting options from naked(upgrade an existing cased AIR)/30.5mm PCB damped mount/Polycarbonate damped mount/Full Metal jacket inertial dampened against drone vibration on larger drones - AIR3 Features a 32 bit F3 SPI STM ARM based CPU (What is SPI? SPI = a much faster sensor bus - Hero 32 SPI gyro/acc/baro data is 10x faster than other i2c f3 designs) BetaFlight makes freestyle Acrobatics much easier to fly smoothly and has very positive lock for 4 point rolls , flips or inverted moves - uses the BetaFlight CHROME interface UI - easy plug-n-play interface (free Google Chrome extension)
For noob Q & A questions - see bottom of this page
Whats New in the AIR HERO*32 F3 BetaFlight?
Question - What's the idea of the Hero•32 F3 metal case ? We have added mass - mass for an IMU to be isolated from vibrations or sensor "noise" - all of the cases in progressive order of magnitude resists the vibrations coming from the motors/props etc - so the dual function of GEL and IMU damping and crash protection are combined. The case is mounted by our special Gell tape and not bolted to the airframe.
Question - Hero•32F3 GPS? Answer - Yes hardware is 100% iNav/GPS ready - including an SPI BARO
Hero•32 F3 Specs
Hero•32 F3 BetaFlight - Includes
DOWNLOAD & CONNECT : To upload code to AIR3 in BF click the switch for "manual baud rate=ON" set to 256000 for the actual flashing ; Oct versions of AIR3 BF 3.1.0 Firmware is Here 4th Oct 2016 for Download ran at 500,000 ; so after uploading this version (or if using for the first time = no need to reflash) select USB speed (top right of UI) to 500,000 to connect by USB ; update - For newest Nov 2016 3.1.0 firmware Dshot enabled firmware for AIR3 Here uses 115200 again
HERO*32 F3 Downloads
HERO*32 F3 Configuration
we have pre-configured PIDS, Yaw alignment, motors stop on ARM, Channel mapping for Taranis Sbus TEAR - however as we don't know what type of RC Rx you want to use - thats something you have to do - select the correct Rx - connect it correctly (see photos above) then ensure your mid points are 1500 and your end points are <1095 ; more than 1905 ;; and you have to make decisions about failsafe and then set your RX failsafe itself too - so you MUST read the steps below - some of the things will already be set when you go to check them. DO NOT press the button called "RESET SETTINGS" it will wipe all of the pre-configured stuff we have done for you. so in summary - ALL THIS STUFF BELOW IS ALREADY DONE for you except the usb driver on your PC
Also make sure your ESC are running BLHeli 16.1 or newer ! We now ship ESCs with MultiShot enabled - it's great
HERO*32 F3 Engine numbers - see Photos above - note these are DIFFERENT to older Airv2 or original Hero - be sure to use those above
ESC are connected with the control wire facing up (yellow or white at the top) - do NOT reverse these wires - NOTE you MUST use the below engine number mapping - NOT the GUI mapping
HERO*32 F3 CLI commands
One of the most useful CLI commands is
this gives you a report on all setting stored in the PARIS AIR Hero•32 F3
I cannot see any comm ports in BetaFlight? - You have not loaded/installed the Silabs driver - see downloads above - to connect First-Time with BF 3.1.0 or later - set USB to 500,000 and select SLAB_USBtoUART
I am obsessed with loading new firmware when i buy things - Should i wipe the HERO32F3 and install the latest firmware online? NO NO NO ! - the "Beta" in betaFlight is there for a reason - daily updates are "bleeding Edge" untested beta - So, We always install the latest STABLE version - so 99.9% of cases if you try to install the newest beta firmware you will go backwards in terms of RISK to your drone / product - Your AIR3 HERO•32 has already been Flashed/tested by us at shipping date, with the latest STABLE version of BF firmware
My AIR3 HERO*32 flops around and won't fly? Do not move it during the first 5 secs after powering up the main LiPo - during the first few seconds the GYRO is calibrating itself
Should i solder pins or solder ESC direct ? Answer = Risk - so soldering is much safer as it removes the risk of intermittent or failed contact of a push-connector - we recommend soldering the wires. Direct soldering of ESC control wires reduces risk and is used by pro-pilots to crash harden a Scarab. On Scarab Knife 240 if you are doing the direct solder upgrade hack, we recommend you also change the 5mm standoffs to 10mm nylon standoffs ; cut away the pins and rotate the AIR32 by 90° to allow the USB to exit to the right side at the same time. Be sure to keep all your ESC control wires well twisted (a control wire twisted tightly with a GND wire reduces noise being injected into that wire) ; route ESC control wires clear of EMI/RFI as per these photos ; use copper shielding to future improve Video signals.
All my Motors Chirp as soon as i connect the main LiPo and keep chirping? Motor Chirp is a safety warning that the RC Tx/Rx signal is dead ; or the THRO signal is NOT <1050 uSec - set your end points to 1090/1500/1910 and if using MULTI-SHOT make sure min command and min throttle are at least 90 points different ie 970 vs 1089 ; also make absolutely sure when the left stick is at the bottom (towards you) that the UI shows throttle channel is <1090 (you may need to reverse the Ch if the throttle UI bar is high >1800 when you check this) - if your motors only chirp after 2 mins - that normal for BEACON or lost model chirping.
When i increase throttle nothing happens? For safety make sure ALL your props are OFF - then learn the ARM and Disarm stick commands below
How do i make sure i am in Acro mode? Go to the UI MODES tab and make sure you mode switch (usually SB) is in the position for all modes Red - a green mode means that mode such as HORIZON or ANGLE(atti) are active -
My HERO*32 is twitching in the hover - This is very rare now with our new props and CarbonBird motors and GEL DAMPING design of AIR3 ; but - 1) Balance your motors and your Balance/check your props fully - lazy pilots don't get smooth Quads - suck it up and balance your props while watching southpark 2) ensure your looptime 8k/4k see above 3) Check your PIDs are as per the above photo above
My HERO*32 won't connect - load the USB drivers above - shut down - restart your PC
My HERO*32 motors all start at different times - yourRC centres are not at 1500 - use the BETA Flight GUI to trim your RC Tx to 1500 - Sbus makes this a LOT easier and more accurate
My Receiver has no Power on USB? - The Receiver shares the DC rail powered by USB. but the ESCs will NOT be powered by USB - to activate ESCs - remove props and connect the main LiPo to the PDB
I tried to use my old MuliWiiConf - now various things are messed up? Do NOT ever use 23 MultiWiiConf GUI code as it's out of date compared to BetaFlight - if you accidentally invoke multiwiiConf java window - you must backup your settings - reload the code from scratch via BetaFlight and restore those settings - or send it back for a paid firmware fix.
I want to connect a MinumOSD to my AIR3 ? Requires upload LOCAL code (v3.1.0 or later) to AIR3 in BF click the switch for "manual baud rate=ON" set to 256000 for the actual flashing ; select the latest AIR3 BF 3.1.0 Firmware is Here 4th Oct 2016 for Download ; then Use the R & T pins (Telem OSD Receive/Transmit + GND and 5v from the back pins R->T ; T->R ) then ; FOR OSD enable UART1 at 115200 as a msp in the PORTS tab of BetaFlight (new BF 3.1.0 will default to set all UART at 500,000 and MinumOSD requires UART1 set to 115200 only) ; and then enable telemetry in the Configuration tab, save. Be aware that OSD and USB both share UART Port 1 so if you want to go back into USB to alter PIDs then disconnect Rx/Tx temporarily - Hero•32 F3 the 5.0v Vcc must be connected to 4 Quad ESC centre pins M1-4 as the other 2 pins (below M5&6) are now used for OSD data output (see blue/green circles below).
I want to connect RGB LED strips to my PARIS Hero•32? You must be running either Sbus or CPPM Rx - then use Pin RC5(blue wire port) as the signal wire - RGB Leds use 5v, GND and this pin - then connect them in series - in->out->in_>out etc
I am getting glitches/flips at random with my Hero•32 naze and my FrSky X4R (D4RII) - Why? It's critical to keep any RC Rx away from ESCs by at least 50-80mm - this can be tricky on a mini - so we recommend wrapping the Rx in heat shrink - then Copper tape as a RF shield, then adding a final layer of heatshrink to ensure no short circuit. Then still do your best to keep it 35mm away from ESCs.
I want to add extra i2c stuff like I2C MAG for iNav Flex port? How? For AIR3 the Flexport = Serial GPS port in iNav CF ; For BetaFlight i2c is disabled n/a and motors 5&6 for Hexii are enabled ; for iNav i2c Mag Compass SCL/SCA are on M5/M6 top row pins - Quad Only - (above Rx/Tx which are Telem OSD pins)
I want to add a serial GPS and code it for Aeroplanes - RTH etc - This option is under development ATM for Airplanes Fixed Wing Ops - coming to AIR3
How do i add a Lost model Alarm (LMA) buzzer or LED strip ? For a PARIS Sirius AIR Hero•32 bit buzzer the pad internally marker "LED" is a GND trigger for up to 1A. Can also be used for a buzzer or LED strip lights etc ...... To trigger a 5v buzzer connect buzzer -ve GND ->LED ; connect 5v + to one of the centre 5v rail pins. this applies to a std piezo 5v buzzer with two wires Red/Black -
PWM LMA Buzzer or a FPV Camera-tilt servo ( note never disconnect or connect a servo with live 5v power ! - you may permanently damage the Hero32 outputs/CPU - POWER OFF FIRST) - For a Pilot activated or Failsafe activated option on PARIS Sirius AIR Hero•32 bit buzzer - ie a more sophisticated LMA using a PWM 3-wire buzzer and C-PPM Rx setup these go active >1500uSecs - so you can pass Aux1->2 to Rx RC 5&6 - ideally Aux 2 would be passed to RC6 - the last wire Purple would be connected to the buzzer white wire); and then GND->GND ; +ve to 5v (same for a servo tilting your FPV camera down - we removed the servo orange wire and connected it to RC6 purple wire and then plugged the servo connector (now only had red/black) to M1 to provide 5v power)
Question = What are the stick commands for CleanFlight? For Mode 2 (throttle on left) use these stick combinations - be aware that the stick must be held in this position for approx 1 sec
Question - For the 6 wires Receiver (Rx) cable what are the inputs ? answer = Most Rx have the THROttle on Channel 1 - but futaba (DevO) have throttle on Ch3 - some radio makers call channel 5 and channel 6 by old outdated fixed wing names like Gear or flaps)
so for Devotion ( = futaba) the wires have THRO = white on Ch3 -then the same sequence as the other end
Yellow = Elevator = Ch 1
Orange= Aileron = Ch 2
White = Throttle = Ch 3
Green = Rudder = Ch 4
Blue = Gear = Ch 5
Purple = Aux 1 = Ch 6
For Taranis / JR / Spektrum - the wires have the same colour sequence at both ends of the cable Rx->PARIS
White = Throttle = Ch 1
Yellow = Elevator = Ch 2
Orange= Aileron = Ch 3
Green = Rudder = Ch 4
Blue = Aux1 = Ch 5 (Spektrum call this Ch GEAR)
Purple = Aux 2 = Ch 6 (Spektrum Call this Ch Aux1)
Posted by Tom crashtestDummy on 11th Jan 2017
The Paris Air3 is my go to flight controller. Having used nearly every flight controller on the drone market, I keep coming back to this AIR3 as it has GEL DAMPING and does all the things I want, with reliability I have yet to find in any other flight controller.
AIR3's compact size helps with tight builds and has all the features you need for a mini quad. I combine this with the mini-Andromeda OSD-90 PDB for nearly all my builds. The fact that it comes with the latest Betaflight and smooth flyable pids loaded onto it takes the guess work out of setup your quad. Highly recommended!
Posted by Damien Pitt on 27th Sep 2016
The Air3 board and is typical multiwiicopter stuff (that is to say, it just works, no fuffing about). Soldered some pins on (I usually avoid pins but I only have a chisel tip so direct soldering was starting to take it's toll on some other components with heat on the PCB and I seem to find an excuse to pull quads down and rebuild every week), connected ESC's, plugged in RX. Checked the BF software, everything about the Air3 was already done, BF 3.0 preloaded, everything to run Sbus checked, etc etc, so I just plugged it all in and went for a fly.
Maidened, smooth as silk. No PID adjustments or tuning yet, just put it in the air and it flew brilliantly.
I still think when you look at the flight 'feel,' I don't believe there's any real 'omg' revelation about feeling more or less locked in in regular flight compared to a standard F1 based board (though if you often read forums people talk about the need to go to F3 boards like F1 practically can't be flown these days, I have to remind myself that all my F1 based boards could wobble out of the sky at any moment) but what I have found is that at the hard edge of manoeuvres is where you see the benefit of those really fast fine adjustments so if you do like to fly hard, you will get these benefits of the F3 at the extreme limits, just don't expect it to make you go from average joe to absolute hero, the only way there is via the fleshy thing attached to the transmitter (that's you, and lots of practice).
Of note, it still uses the 'gasp' 6500 gyro, the one everyone says is an issue but to be honest having used multiple Paris boards using that gyro it's always been a hardware issue, you can't strap something down direct to an object that has inherent vibration and not expect issues, the whole thing reminds me of a dog chasing it's tail; hard mount an FC, find hardware solution picks up hardware problem, spend weeks chasing solution in software. It's basically taking the sensitivity of the gyro and then saying 'lets just dumb down the s*** out of it till it ignores the vibrations'
Anyway yeh, I had done a lot of research on FC's, looked at FC / PDB integrated units, this that and every other combination; never really found anything that didn't have some form of issue in one shape or another so I stuck with what I know having never had a Paris Air or Paris 32 play up on me and yeh, no issues.
So if you are in the market for a new FC do you go with this (the new F3 based board) or the older F1 boards? The F1 is still a very capable board and I have used them now for the longest period without issue; but going forward, get yourself the F3, there's really no down side to it.