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CarbonBird Motor - NMB - 888kva Brushless Multicopter Motor - normal shaft

Shipping Weight:
98.00 Grams

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Product Description

Now replaced by R15 Motor HERE

The  888kv CarbonBird 300W motors are designed from our first hand experience of 3 years building and flying multicopters.  MultiWiiCopter.com is one the founding manufacturers of multicopters since 2010 and our CarbonBirds are built for pilots by pilots.  New for 2013 is the larger main bearing, ribbed can design for great surface area cooling of the magnets and a new radial cooling fan.  Extensive inflight testing proves that the engine mounted below the centre line provides better in-flight video and less vibration to the IMU.  


  • True 300w motor (for 10 secs) made for our SCARAB Multicopters by us - not sold on any other website
  • Opposite side mount to prop - advantage = massive reduction in propeller feedback and gyroscopic precession forces
  • Superior windings 24T,  888kva for 4S 1060 or 4S 0950 props 
  • The ideal prop range for these motors on 4s (16.8->12v) is 10"x5 triples ;  with variations being 9x5 or 11x5 - if you run a 12x5 you risk overheating the motor
  • Full 320mm 20AWG multicore wires with 2mm long GBC
  • Superior NMB™ bearings - 2013 now features a 22% bigger bearing and 8% increase in measured efficiency
  • superior Cooling and airflow 2013 allowing larger props for better aerodynamic gain
  • Light weight - LOW Inertia  - faster RPM changes - whilst large dimeter disc motors have motor torque they also have less efficient magnets and more inertia which is bad for smooth rpm changes
  • reversible shaft (user skills required) - or install optional reverse side adapter
  • 5mm prop shaft (up to 12mm thick prop)  / 8mm nut
  • 16mm and 19mm mounting holes M3 bolts - 3.5mm bevel supplied
  • Motor X-Mount supplied for 33mm hole s- Co-axial Y6
  • Works at Low/Medium timing with Carbonbird 18Amp

Dimensions & Specs
  • 28D x 32.5h  -see photo at right
  • 16mm and 19mm mounting holes
  • Colour - now all RED (black shows colour of previous model)
  • 63.6g including 320mm wires and GBC
  • No-load Current (Medium timing) - 12.0v ; 0.45Amp - 4S 16.34v ; 0.60Amp 13,733rpm
  • internal resistance  0.145 Ω ohms
  • 24T 12Stator/14magnets
  • 1 x CarbonBird Motor with 320mm wires ; 3.5mm male connectors pre-soldered
  • 1 Prop-adapters 3.17mm/5mm
  • 1 x spare 3.17mm (1/8") x 46mm shaft
  • 1 x spare washer and circlip


  • Button head bolts M3*5 for SCARAB mounts not included - available here
  • Excludes reverse side prop 5mm adapter if required HERE
  • Excludes spare Prop 6mm Adapters HERE 
  • Motor balancing tape HERE
  • Requires Loctite - NOTE :screws are held by Loctite - this type of glue stops screws coming undone - Loctite glue is VERY hard at room temp or lower temps <35°c - to release any screw with loctite, simply heat it with your girl-friends hair dryer set to max heat (keep away from carbon)- heat the bolt so it is too hot to touch with your finger (85°C) - then the glue will become soft like butter and the M3 or M2 screw can be "released".  For M2 screws use the 1/16th Pro-tool here


Initial Setup & Maintenance:  Things you must know for proper care and setup of CarbonBird Motors

  • This is not a toy - Aviation requires discipline, inspection and risk analysis - Multicopter motors form part of the critical aircraft flight system and become your duty of care when purchased and built.
  • WARNING ! If a motor/prop fails a Quad or Tricopter Copter can fall from the sky and cause harm to person or property below - Always do a full pre-flight inspection on the motors ; A post flight temperature check for thermal stress (hot motor) - Schedule of maintenance you must perform includes : -
  1. Grub Screw - check the grub screw for security(tighness) - /Remove and add Blue Loctite® to the shaft grub screw - make sure Loctite® does not enter any bearing!  Always heat the engine to 100°C-110°C (domestic hairdryer on hot) before trying to remove a grub screw held by loctite glue.  Loctite becomes very soft when hot.  Alignment of the grub screw locks the shaft so be sure to get alignment of the "flat" when you apply the shaft to the bell - pro tip ; we usually use a Dremel to grind a ramp on the shaft this prevents shaft creep - you can also grind a "flat" on any shaft to use it in any postion or depth to suit your needs - you dont have to use the default "flat" spot - just make a new "flat" if needed, as long as the shaft has 270° of round surface it wont float. 
  2. Collets ( the aluminium shaft fitted over the steel motor shaft) - On recent Carbonbird motors - the collet is supplied pre-fixed with loctite - remove the spinner/washer/collar and feed the moto through the engine mount - then re-assemble the collet.  the collet Loctite'd to the shaft - its supplied like this to stop noobs have the shaft come off  because they cannot understand how to tighten it and they go flying on their maiden with the collet half tight -   problem is some noobs still DONT understand loctite glue - you have the HEAT loctite'd screws/collets to 100°C first (recommend a domestic ladies hair dryer on maximum heat -> - do not heat the magnets >100°C ) - once heated, then Loctite'd items come undone/out real easy - applying excess force to motor shafts and grub screws which are COLD is a the wrong way to do it - again, its not necessary to even remove the collet as it fits through the engine mount with the collar and spinner removed.  if you do want to remove one after a crash - then HEAT IT FIRST - it will slide off. Note : a Collet must be attached to a motor shaft with loctite™ to ensure it won't release under vibration; to Remove a collet , remove the spinner, remove the prop and lower red collar, then first heat the inner collet to 145°C with a heat gun (avoid heating magnets) then the loctite will be very soft and the collet will release from the shaft - To remove dried loctite, use the solvent Acetone - normally just place the removed collet in acetone for 20 mins and it will be very soft and wash away easily. The collet/spinner must be torqued to sufficient pressure to hold the collet on the shaft - it should pass a 5kg "pull-test" 
  3. Ensure the Circlip is set (crimped) correctly to hold the shaft in place under the correct axial pressure - inspect closely for any sign of looseness.
  4. The tension of the 2 main bears is set by the grub screw to circlip distance - there should be no axial play - removining any gap and setting this pressure (the flex in the circlip itself) will govern the smoothness or noise level and even effect the video if unchecked - be sure to set it accurately.  In some instances you will need to grind a "flat" onto the shaft for the grub.
  5. Carefully apply 1 small drop of OIL to each bearing every 5 hours flight time - with a syringe & needle (new SAE20-50 motor oil) - allow the oil to soak in for 1 min; wipe away all excess oil - oil traps abrasive dust!
  6. Avoid all dusty Landing/Takeoff zones - We recommend Ops from a dust-free rooftop LZ on a 4WD/SUV vehicle or a 1.5m circular plywood dust-free Helipad on the ground to prevent any dust ingress to the bearings.  Abrasive dust entering bearings will shorten the effective life dramatically - inspect the bearngs for wear and replace if worn -Spin the motor - Magnetic cogging will slow and stop the motor which is normal - check for any wear or abnormal sound/roughness/dryness or non-linear friction indicating a bearing failure. 
  7. Use high pressure air (can of comressed air - or air line) to clean any sand,dust, grass or dirt away from an engine after every flight.  Do NOT take off and land in sand, dirt or dust! Doing so introduce abrasive dust into the bearings and seriously shorten the life of bearings.
  8. Inspect the wires to ensure the insulation is in-tact and not pulled - jerked or broken
  9. Check that the collet (Prop-adapter) is tightened by even force on both sides!  and cannot be pulled off with 2kg force - Dont assume it's tight - check it in Pre-flight by looking at the collet gap.
  10. Use Blue Loctite® to mount the engine screws to the carbon/G10 engine holder.  Check the engine mounting screws never penetrate too far into the engine & short the winding wires
  11. Inspect the prop for any fatigue cracks or white stress lines - immediately repalce any prop suspected of weakness - Routinely replace props every 10 flight hours.
  12. Shaft must be replaced if bent - using a 3mm punch and tapped out - or shaft can be reversed by removing the grub screw and using a bench vise to push it further in and out the other side - then retighten the grub screw
  13. if the motor is observed to be showing some initial warning sign - AN INDICATOR - stutter, hesitation or play noted by the pilot but not considered to be a risk by the pilot - and he decided to continue flight ; consider fully the RISK ; this can cause subsequent engine failure and total loss of your aircraft if it has less than six engines. Be aware -
    the most common causes of engine failure are
    • ingestion of FOD (foreign object damage) dirt, dust, stones or ferris iron debris which can enter the motor during take off and landing - causing trauma (cuts) to the windings or insulation of the windings, damage to bearings
    • breakage of one or more of the internal lead-in stator winding wires by stress (pulling of the wires during ground handling or assembly) - can be caused in incorrectly handling a motor, crash impact tension, carry the craft by gripping the motor assembly wires causing a break inside a motor.
    • magnetic variation - de-magnetising of one or more magnets by placing the magnets on or against other motors/magnets or in magnetic fields - tapping against metal objects of the can of the motor - this partial de-magnetisation can cause the ESC to overheat the engine because the timing cannot be accurately determined by the ESC. Thermal run-away - engine overheats because it is effectively overloaded - Copter is too heavy.  Overheated magnets are permanently ruined.
    • dry-joints or inconsistent  loose push-connections/soldering between an ESC and a motor leading to timing faults - if one of the three connections is loose or not 100% soldered correct - Should you observe ANY motor hesitation or stutter on first power applied 10% throttle - immediately cut power - do not Power-up further or you will blow the ESC  - DO NOT FLY especially relevant for long wiring runs or self soldered joints - USE solder paste - use a Digital Multimeter DMM to check all 3 wires show the same Resistance in ohms - check the wires for breakage or shorts.  Save your ESC by careful observation of problem indicators.
    • Shorting of any motor wire(s) internally to the metal/carbon booms or too the airframe- INSULATION of ALL WIRES annd joints is vital.  - short of the insulation from sharp carbon edges not filed smooth during construction - leading to timing problems or stuttering - Should you observe ANY motor hesitation or stutter - DO NOT FLY - replace the motor /wires/ESC as applicable to the fault - Beginner fault to observe AN INDICATOR - such as hestition then continue to fly - delibrately blowing the ESc - leading to failure and a crash - Pro-Pilots discontinue flight/Land at the slightest hint of a problem - because they realise that warnings are only given once. 
    • Poor bearing maintenance lubrication and/or exposure/ingress of abrasive dust leading to bearing breakdown
    • Failure to balance the motor/prop leading to wear and tear. Check closely for security ; tighness of all componenets ; security of the grub screws, circlips and the bell. Be vigilent to check for variations in gaps your pre-flight on all engines  
    • Post crash damage re-use - Pease consider a crash has trasferred massive forces to the motor. a sudden stop from Prop Stike can have drastic effects on a motor turning at 7000 rpm. Check the bell and magnets to ensure they are 100% true and secure after crash. Change a shaft involved in a prop strike.
    • Shaft slippage due to the grub screw flling out from lack of Loctite™
    it's VITAL to monitor the temps of all engines on the post-flight check, avoid operations where FOD. dust is a risk and keep motors padded in transport.  It is also recommend to ground the aircraft and 100% locate the cause of any abnormal performance item.
    A normal shaft can be reversed to become a reversed shaft (motor and prop on same side of mount) - as per this video
  • NEVER fit the propellers to a motor until AFTER you have fully Tested and set-up the motor and YOU understand that electric motors can start suddenly without any warning.  With proper understanding and maintenance the motors are safe.
  • NEVER run a propeller without FIRST balancing it on a magnetic balancer
  • Do a staic and a dynamic balance of all props for best results
  • Do a hand Maiden - before any flight maiden;  to observe all engines running normally under power applied condition - and all controls responding correctly.
  • During the hand maiden feel the airframe for vibration levels - there should be none - smooth - vibration indicates an out of balance motor/prop and must be traced and balanced.

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