
Getting Started - Transmitter Calibration

Welcome! DO NOT SKIP THIS first STEP above photo - the very first thing you must do for your first MultiWiicopter.com PARIS v4.0 board is Calibrate your Transmitter to give accurate PWM outputs - every transmitter is slightly different - Create a new model memory on the Tx and Call it PARIS. Make sure your
PC/Mac has JAVA loaded enabled - The GUI runs on JAVA - do a cold restart after installing
Java - connect the Receiver (Rx) to the PARIS, connect the PARIS to your FTDI-USB - this supplies 5v power (
after installing the FTDI drivers - HERE - cold restart) and turn on your Transmitter (Tx) and set ACRO(airplane) & PPM(not PCM). Do NOT connect anything else to the PARIS ! - then Launch the matching 1.9->1.9
Config or 1.9->1.9 Application/program on your PC or Mac and whilst looking at your PC screen - you will see that changes made on the Tx are sent to the PARIS via your Rx - and actual critical uSEC readings -
1095/1500mid/1905 can be set. PARIS is a digital interface and the software running invisibly inside requires very specific digital PWM uSEC numbers to hover 100% auto-level, arm, disarm etc. So this may seem a bit weird but you will be using/pressing buttons on your Tx whilst your eyes are looking at your PC or Mac. So move all sticks to the centre - set all Tx trims to neutral - Now use
SUB TRIM MENU on your Tx to set all mid points to 1500 on these blue bars. Then move, one at a time,move each stick to the low position and
set 1095; then move each stick/switch to the high position and
set 1905. Then go back and check all your midpoints are still 1500 Do this for all sticks and switches.
Orientation - the light blue bars (above) MUST move in the same direction as the stick you are moving - If they do not then REVERSE that Ch in your Tx. So if you move the throttle stick up - then the blue Throttle bar should move up. If you move your rudder right then the YAW bar should move right.
thanks ..... take care and Fly Safe - Quinton AlouetteIII
Understanding RC Safety - MultiWiiCopters
for MultiWiiCopter
PARIS customers; by AlouetteIII © MultiWiicopter.com 2011
• Keep your PROPS OFF - not installed - until you are fully conversant/understand in full the functions of your Tx in full including TRAV (end Points), the arm and disarm procedures - realise that for a noob skiping or out-of-order set-up steps or moving sticks, or even static - PROPS may start at anytime without warning. Never install props prior to calibration of the ESC and testing the gyro orientation, and arm/disarm testing of the board - YOU are responsible - make sure your actions and your Copter is safe. Never ASSUME the props will not start - removing the props removes the risk.
Set Mode 2 (Throttle on left) Mode 2 mimics a real helicopter where the pilot operates
the 'Collective/Pwr' with his left hand - and the 'cyclic stick' with his right.
Set your Tx to ACRO (basic Airplane) mode - set PPM (not PCM), Activate Ch5 (Gear-Mode)
Read your Tx/Rx product manuals - You as the Pilot are responsible for safety.
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Using the Tx sticks to operate the PARIS
Set the Throttle to OFF - After connecting the LiPo - The ESCs will beep to indicate they are powered but not armed - ESC's cannot arm on power-up with PARIS Wii boards. The embedded PARIS software prevents this and requires you arm with a stick combination below The red LED comes on (steady) on the CPU board showing the board has power. After connecting the LiPo (or USB) the green CPU LED will flash for 5 secs then go OUT If the LED blinks green (fast) but won't stop blinking - then the Rx is not powered by 5v (an Rx cannot get sufficient PWR from some USB! It must be powered by 5v from at least one BEC).If the green LED still blinks green (fast) but won't stop blinking -then the Rx is not connected to the correct PARIS/warthox THRO pin correctly. The ESCs cannot calibrate as a multi-engine-group because the default state of the CPU->ESC is Dis-armed for all engines. You need to calibrate ESC throttle-learning range as a separate exercise -below
If the ESC's beep-non-stop then they are not connected to the PARIS board ESC pins or the Rx is incorrectly connected or the Rx/PARIS sees you do not have your throttle to zero.
If your copter goes out of radio-range it may cause harm - if still powered - Take the precaution to program in the FAILSAFE condition to protect people/property. Do not skip this step.
Bind your failsafe (Read your Radio manual - FAILSAFE) on the Tx with power/Throttle set to OFF - Power off failsafe condition. You might decide to set the failsafe power to 1/3 throttle so the aircraft descends in a controlled descent - recommended if understood - For Example on FrSky - set sticks as above (or THRO to 1/3) - then Press the Rx button - 2 green flashes on the Rx itself - done. Failsafe can also be set in Software (NOT recommended - Use only for ultra basic or legacy Tx's - if your Tx has failsafe - use that). When you turn your Tx OFF in a test the Failsafe - should return the Copter to level and min-throttle -
NOTE : If you use a 1/3 power (controlled descent setting) be aware that if you switch your radio off while the PARIS armed - then you will initiate a 1/3 powered condition!
You must understand this concept fully and realise the word failsafe - does not mean you can be an idiot - sorry - you still need to understand the consequences of your chosen failsafe condition - and You will be deciding what the Radio will do when it cannot receive a signal. You are still the Pilot in command - YOU are responsible to decide how you will handle failsafe above.
Arming - Learn to recognise that your WiiCopter is ARMED. Hold right Yaw (or right cyclic) for 1 sec - you will see the Green LED come on - stays on SOLID
If LED does not come on GREEN - then increase YAW travel on the Tx (see Transmitter Calibration procedure - above top) - or Check the THRO is not actually reversed by mistake (Futaba) - then trim down a few clicks on the THRO trim. If it still won't arm connect FTDI and use the JAVA-Config (see below - install JAVA) to make sure the Throttle PWM is below 1100 (normal THRO range is 1100-1900) - In order to arm - the Wii CPU is looking for THRO <1100 and YAW ~1900 - The GUI shows actual values from Rx and is a valuable guide to trouble-shoot a CPU which won't apparently arm.
Disarming - Learn to DISARM the ESC's before touching or approaching the Copter ESC's/Motors can start suddenly and the props can cut - fingers and eyes - permanent injuries With THRO OFF ; Hold the YAW stick LEFt for 1 sec ; then the CPU GREEN LED will go OUT and stay out
Gyro Calibration - Disarm the copter (see above) ; Place the Copter on a perfectly LEVEL LZ - it must be completely static - Set Trims to neutral - Stand back - With THRO off, Hold the YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ; release - you will see the GREEN LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out - The Gyro is now calibrated for drift (at this ambient temperature) - The Gyro on a PARIS/warthox board is the WiiMP+ You can Ddo this everytime you fly - preferably about 2mins after Powering up - in the outside air temps where you will fly.

Accelerometer (Acc) Calibration - Fly the Copter in ACRO mode - Trim the copter using the Transmitter stick sub-Trims so it hovers still on STILL air (no wind) - Land -
Disarm the copter (see above) ; ensure the Copter is on a perfectly LEVEL LZ - it must be completely static -
Confirm the DISARMED LED is OFF - Hold Full THRO/YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ;
release - you will see the GREEN LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out - The Acc is now calibrated for LEVEL mode (at this ambient temperature) - The ACC on a PARIS/warthox board is the Nunchuk®.
Accelerometer (Acc) Trimming - Also called auto-LEVEL trimming - FIRST do after the GYRO & ACC calibrations and normal ACRO trimming (see above) using the Tx trims. LAND.
Switch over to LEVEL mode (Gear Switch).
Take off and mentally note the way the copter wants to drift - DO NOT TRIM THE TX
- Land - The final ACC trimming procedure (below) is this -DISARM (see above - the Green LED will go OFF) Move the THRO to the 'Learn Position - full up) - in this example the copter was moving back and right - so ; using stick-banging - move the cyclic (right stick) up once (led blinks) - then left once (led blinks) - these alterations are saved to the CPU memory. ARM again - hover and repeat the process until the copter hovers 'level'.
TRI.Copter Arming - Because TriCopters are fitted with a YAW servo they have a special (alternate) arming procedure in >1.7 MultiWii software. Learn to recognise that your Wii TriCopter is ARMED. SET THRO to Zero - off - Hold Cyclic-right for 1 sec - you will see the Green LED come on - stays on If LED does not come on GREEN - then increase ELEV/AILER travel (see Transmitter Calibration procedure - above top) - Check the THRO is not actually reversed by mistake - and trim down a few clicks on the THRO trim If it still won't arm connect FTDI and use the JAVA-Config (see below) to make sure the Throttle PWM is below 1100 (normal THRO range is 1100-1900) - In order to arm - the Wii CPU is looking for THRO <1100 and AIL/ELEV ~1900 - The GUI shows actual values from Rx and is a valuable guide to trouble-shoot a CPU which won't arm. TRI.Copter
Disarming - Learn to DISARM the ESC's before touching or approaching the TriCopter
ESC's/Motors can start suddenly and the props can cut - fingers and eyes - permanent injuries With THRO OFF ; Hold the cyclic stick LEFT for 1 sec ; then the CPU GREEN LED will go OUT and stay out
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The Arduino connection 
MultiWiiCopters fly on Arduino® software info on
022Arduino is here - make sure to use 0.22 (new version 1.0Arduino will not compile the MultiWii code yet)
Unzip the download and you get 2 folders - the Arduino Sketch files are in MultiWii_1_9Folder
The other folder MultiWii
Conf_1_9 contains the JAVA program/App - this is the GUI - The
Conf is a JAVA Application which allows you to control lots of parameters on your PARIS and see feedback on-screen - If it does not run ; then
update your JAVA.
(big version below) - So on my Mac I use both these applications
Both the Arduino App and the JAVA-configGUI App to interact with The PARIS.
5v power for PC/WiiBoard CPU/software Ops comes from the USB cable from the PC/Mac via
an FTDI connector. However
5v power to the DC bus (The Receiver) ; the 3v3 voltage regulator for BMA180 and LLC comes from a BEC on a speed controller or a separate switching UBEC running off a 2S800mah 7.4 cell to give 5V to the board, power the Rx etc..
1) Connect the BEC to the board via any 3pin ESC pin ; DownLoad the
FTDI Drivers HERE ; restart PC/Mac ; connect your FTDI to your PARIS
3) Set the Tools->Serial Port->Com8 (for Mac will be something like /dev/tty.usbserial-A8004Yt1) - this selects the USB port you have the PARIS/warthox plugged in
4) Set the Tools->Board->Arduino ProMini 5v 16Mhz ATmega328
5) File-> Open ----- navigate to the MultiwiiV1_8 folder ->MultiwiiV1_9 folder->MultiWiiV1_9.pde (or if I have sent you file ; then open that file)
6) Now you will see the code written in Arduino code. scroll down to Configurable Parameters - Important - Black items are active - Grey items are not - in the code file
7) delete the // infront of a line to activate it - so - to #define MINTHROTTLE 1180 for plush
(already done if I have sent you the code) delete the // infront of this line (only do this to one of the MINTHROTTLES)
8) The Default Defined Copter type is #define TRI - if you want to define QUAD-X this should now be changed to #define QUADX (you have to deleted the // - this is called commenting it into code) - comment out the type that was there before //#define TRI
9) Define Yaw direction #define YAW_DIRECTION 1 you can change this to the next line -1 t reverse it #define YAW_DIRECTION -1
10) To upload the new code (It wil overwrite everthing that was on the board before) File->Upload to I/O Board ; In the blue at the bottom you will see Uploading to I/O board ; after about 35secs it will say Done Uploading in the blue bar at the bottom
Gimbal - connect the gimbal servos to Cm1 and Cm2 - If you need to trigger a camera manually by pressing a button/servo - then connect this servo to Trg.
to activate the camera slave for a Gimbal mount on a Quad or Tricopter. Then alter the values for TILT_PITCH_PROP and TILTROLL_PROP until your gimbal remain level - reverse the servo by using minus (ie -10)
11) I personally don't use motors-spinning-at-arm - It does not protect you from accidently dis-arming your copter in mid-air! So I first define MOTOR_STOP
Then after arming - the motors will twitch - but not spin up. :) Then - most importantly - I trim up on the Tx Throttle 5-6 clicks so all the props are turning at the MIN speed I require for an emergency decent - Then I fly. In this trimmed up condition it is impossible for me to accidentally disarm in flight even if I use full yaw in a full descent. That's my preference and each pilot must set his own FAILSAFE (see above) and set his own safety features ; The Captain of the aircraft (You) is responsible for his own training, the way he flies and his set-up.
12) Quit Arduino 22 software (two applications cannot share the connection)
The GUI - a JAVA Application

Refer Picture ABOVE - Note be sure to Quit Arduino® 22 software before trying to run the GUI (two applications cannot share the ftdi -connection) - Do not reload default code! Stay calm. Your pnp PARIS has already been tested and calibrated. Open (or search for) the java App called MultiWiiConf1_8.2.app (PC apps end in .exe) Start this application (program) a1) After pressing the COM link - wait 2 secs - then press Start a2 -> then wait 2 secs -> wait 2 secs - (if you click these buttons without waiting 2 secs you can erase your eeprom and all the values will read ZEROS) press READ a3 ; Your GUI is now connect live to your PARIS - again - don’t rush the clicks or you may wipe the eeprom. Make a note of all your values before you change them (Screen Capture/Print Screen) - just incase you have to go back to them (general rule is never change more than one thing at a time) It should look like the values from my screen capture above b4 - Transmitter Calibration - covered on Pg 1 - connect your Tx - Rx and USB-> You will now importantly see the values for low stick / mid stick / high stick VERY IMPORTANT - using your Tx - alter the travel (futaba call these end points) to first get 1500 for mid stick ; then 1095 for low stick ; then 1905 for high stick - then - ESC THROTTLE LEARNING - NOW go back and do the ESC calibration one by one for THORTTLE-LEARNING (an ESC function - nothing to do with Multiwiisoftware) b5 - check the values in this area are all even (the same) at low throttle settings - if not then make sure - again - that you are in ACRO mode and the mid stick is at 1500 - see b4 c6 - Click and hold the boxes to change them - then press write c7. If you got a PNP board D8 & D9 are already done for you. with the PARIS ACC perfectly level and still press calib_acc d8 - then wait 4 secs - then press Calibrate_MAG d9 - the LED blinks rapidly - you have 30secs to rotate the board 360° degress in all axis X, Y and Z - when the LED stops blinking it will save all the MAG tilt errors to eprom. The actual heading shown is not used in 1.8 yet for Nav - and is set in software offset - at a future time.
If your Copter is not flying stable or close to stable on default PIDs, as shown above e10 then do not alter the PIDs like a madman - The electronics/software will not save you from un-balanced props - or a bad combination of PROPS/ESC/MotorWindings. Light weight props and Medium/high timing are required. Balance your props on a magnetic balancer until they run silky smooth...then balance them one at a time on a hand-rig for dynamic balance. With a motor on a boom run each one atdifferent RPM to check the running (dynamic ) balance of that prop - use electrical tpe to balance them ---- to change values in e10 - click-hold-drag ; then press write.
Never change more than one value at a time - then fly - then change it again then fly - make small changes - sometimes a change of 0.1 will make the difference between too soft; and oscillations. Make a note of all your values before you change them (Screen Capture/Print Screen) - just incase you have to go back to them (general rule is never change more than one thing at a time) It should look like the values from my screen capture below.
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Sirius® Navigator IMU
The Sirius® Navigator uses the ITG3200 gyro/BMA180 ACC/BMP085Baro and 5883L MAG and requires that the user
update to 1.9 code here
- first active the Sirius - see below - comment it into the code
- Tune the LP filter in the Arduino software for the 3200 gyro - the default 256Hz low pass filter will work for smaller high speed Multicopters but if you are running slower RPMs and 2 bladed props you may need to move to a lower LP frequency to filter out any random twitching. Alter it down in steps. the screenshot animation -below - shows selecting the 42Hz fLP filter - then fly - don't go lower than you need to remove the random twitch. If you cannot remove the twitch no matter what LP filter filter then either change your props/motors/esc or fit an original Nintendo® Wii MP+ IDG600 gyro and de-activate the 3200 from the code
- NOTE: Because the ITG3200 is so sensitive you MUST balance all props, balance all engines and check all shafts and collets are running true. dont add extra foam! this cause resonance - Dont use hot melt glue!
- Theoretically a faster I2C bus rate is better - but I find that in real life flight tests there is not advantage to 400khz over 100khz - realistically the motors and props have inertia and the faster data flow is irrelevant at the props cannot change speed anything like this by physical limitations of inertia. If you get a placebo effect from 400khz - cool.
Below is the code change for Sirius
For the Sirius 600
you need to do one more thing
1. Comment out the ITG3200 in the def.h panel - so add two // - This effectively activates the IDG600 MP+ gyro
Thats it ! Your PC/Mac - and You - and your Copter are now in RC heaven.
MultiWii GUI - More control and more data for the PILOT
The real power of the MultiWiiCopter system comes from using the FTDI - USB connection with a PC or a MAC.
After commenting (writing changes - see above) to your Arduino code and uploading it to your board (see above - already done in the Plug-n-Play versions) Launch the JAVA GUI App -
Press the PORT COM link COM8 -> (wait 5 secs) then START - (then wait 4 secs)Then READ - Then CALIBRATE - You will se this.
Changing the Yaw rate to 0.3 increases the turn speed
Changing the check boxes allows combinations from a single switch such as Baro
There are no secret PIDs !!!! - If your Multiwiicopter does not fly well on my default PIDs (below) that I install on all PNP PARIS boards (below) - then its an aero-dynamic problem - this means you made it
- To Heavy - Max is 280g per prop
- You mis-matched the props/motors and ESC
- You did not calibrate your ESC to the PARIS/ESCs
- You did not set your minThrottle high enough - 1190 min
- You did not balance your props Statically
- You did not balance your props Dynamically (running - turning)
- You did not balance your motors
- You were fooled into buyng a box-section lattice work aerodynamic disaster airframe - SCARABS uses slender circular booms very a VERY good reason based on aerodynamic drag and turbulence

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LED's Light emitting diodes
Question - What is the meaning of the LEDS'on a PARIS board?
Answers - These mean different things at different times - The GUI Config on your PC/Mac is far more useful but when your Copter is not connected to the PARIS board the led can provide some limited information - see below - also please study our Tx animations above RED LED = power to 328 CPU is ON - should always be on The CPU board gets power from the 5v BUS ; or USB The Rx and 5v BUS gets power from a UBEC or a BEC on one of your ESCs - ; Rx/Tri-servo NOT powered via USB GREEN LED on the CPU board and the Hi-Output LED(either bright white or bright green) have several functions
GREEN LED is doing this :-
1) GREEN LEDS are on and stay on when the board is armed - are OFF and stay OFF when the board is DISARMED
2) GREEN LEDS blink rapidly 5 times Cal.Sticks.Gyro of the Gyro(MP+) then goes off - wait 10 secs
3) GREEN LEDS blink medium whilst computing a Cal.Sticks.Acc of the Acc(NK) then goes off - wait 10 secs
4) GREEN LEDS blinks during initial power up then goes OFF (the very FIRST time it will not because it's never been calibrated :) (see Cal.1 Cal.2 and Cal.3 procedure - below)
5) GREEN LEDS blink slowly if a problem is detected on start-up - code error (usually calibration NOT done)
6) GREEN LEDS blink slowly if Calibration Cal.1 Cal.2 and Cal.3 not completed (see below)
7) blinks once to indicate the CPU compute's a leveling correction
8) GREEN LEDS blinks rapidly 5 times for each stick-banging throw in ACC trimming "learning" mode
9) GREEN LEDS blinks slowly after loading Software in Arduino22 and before doing the Cal.GUI.Acc (see below)
10) GREEN LEDS blinks very rapidy for 30 secs when doing MAG calibration - stops by itself when finished
11) GREEN LEDS comes one when disarmed if it detects the PARIS board is tilted >20° or so - goes off again if the board is leveled out
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Question : My GREEN LED Flashes slowly and just won't arm?
Answer : The most common reason for not being able to arm is - YOU skipped the Calibration of your Tx (above -top) - see Transmitter Calibration
Then Calibrate the PARIS Sensors - THIS IS ALREADY DONE Cal.1 Cal.2 and Cal.3 below
There are two kinds of ACC calibration - and one kind of Gyro calibration -
Do these in the order 1),2) and 3) below - these are Required to set-up and stop a flashing GREEN LED the first time you initialise it (thereafter stored in bootROM)
Cal.1) Cal.GUI.Acc - press the CALIBRATE button in the GUI - blue/red/yellow lines are corrected and Blue line shows 1g (gravity) of 200 (or 520 for Sirius®)
Cal.2) Cal.TxSticks.Gyro - Disarm - copter level and still (not hand held) - move the sticks on Tx to calibrate (see above) - wait 10 secs - then do 2) below
Cal.3) Cal.TxSticks.Acc - Disarmed - copter level (use a bubble) and still (not hand held) - move the sticks on Tx to calibrate (see above) - wait 10 secs - arm - fly
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Question : What is the AUTO LEVEL LED for? - Answer: The reason it is called AUTO LEVEL LED is that it is used to verify the function of the 'learning' trimming of the stick-banging method for the ACC (also the reason why it faces backwards towards the pilot on takeoff - also faces the pilot when he lands to trim the ACC) - because this is done at the flying field with the copter in the outdoors/sun it has to be bright enough to see at 10 paces in sunlight - so land - disarm - it goes OFF - go to learning mode (see wiki above ACC trimming) then for each stick-banging throw you will see the 5 fast flashes of this LED. Arm again - goes on - fly
At the moment there is no provision for a dedicated/separate (third) modeLED in the 1.8 software - a good idea for future versions of the software - First verify your chosen switch (usually gear Switch) is working in the GUI - then mark your Tx switch (as you have selected for ACRO/LEVEL modes - see below in GUI) with red sticker, if you need it. I fly in ACRO mode and only switch to LEVEL mode for high hovers and high -> low hover decent Aerial photo flights or FPV
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Question : What are Pullups?
Answer - Pullups are resistors :) There are some inside your CPU controlled/activated by software - some on your PARIS as per this photo above.
- For 1.7 code and later, a PARIS fitted with 5v sensors (MP+ and NK originals) on the PARIS (or our old warthox board) the default software and hardware as you get them, are correct. You don't have to do anything in the code. All the data on the SDA and SCL I2C bus is running at 5v or slightly less voltage. Same goes for 1.8 software. The internal pullups inside the CPU are not as good as the hardware ones we provide because their value is too high at ~20K and they are essential "slow" resulting in inferior I2C data waveforms as seen on an oscilloscope - hence the reason we provide hardware pulls which are specifically 2k2 to be faster.
If you want to connect 3v3 sensors like BARO, ACC or MAG then active the code line here
Bearing in mind the above, when you attach 3.3v sensors, the CPU is still running 5v voltages in the SCL and SDA lines and you will blow you LV sensors even if you you use the 3.3v Vcc supply - unless you activate our pullups - You can also choose to activate our 2k2 hardware pullups (solder pads) on the PARIS; (or install the 1206 SMD pullups on our old warthox board on the vacant pads) . If you want to run mixed voltages - ie some devices at 5v (keep the motion plus MP+ running at 5v so it can reset in flight) and some devices at 3.3v then the LLC is used and the 5v devices are connected to the HV side and the 3.3v devices are connected to the LV side.
For example if you were only going to connect a Sirius® IMU to an older PARIS v3 (and specifically remove your MP+ - which we don't actually recommend removing - FYI the MP+ 600 gyro original is a very very good Gyro suited 100% to all multicopters with some onboard vibration - We would recommend to run both the MP+ and the Sirius together - especially if you already own to fantastic MP+) then, in the instance of Sirius alone , you would leave the code at default - close the solder pad to activate our hardware 2k2 pullups (bringing your SDA and SCL lines down below 3.3v) and connect Sirius Vcc to the PARIS 3.3v line on the IMU side.
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PARIS v 3.0 - Classic Nintendo Wii Motion Plus MP+
and Nintendo Wii Nunchuk NK combo
For Electronic Engineers wanting to build a classic recycled Wii board using the v3.0 PARIS use these 2 diagrams below
NOTE: Use the 4v5 PIN12 for Vcc. Drill a 4mm hole thru the AE of the word Aerial. Pass the NK wires thru this. This is for Original Brand Nintendo Motion Plus - April 2011 version. See video page this site to harvest MP+
NOTE: This original Nintendo® NK has been harvested as per the video on the videos page this site. The ACC is located close to the geometric centre of the board. Stuck down with rubberised foam tape. It must be perfectly level/flat.
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Classic Nintendo Wii Motion Plus MP+
and Nintendo Wii Nunchuk NK combo
warthox FPV 2.0 - for Electronic Engineers wanting to build a classic recycled Wii board using the v3.0 PARIS use these 2 diagrams below - The Classic has both the Wii Motion Plus+ Gyro and the Wii Nunchuk Acc. These items need to be harvested from Wii hand controls - then added to the warthox board below.
NOTE: Use the 4v5 PIN12 for Vcc. Drill a 4mm hole thru the AE of the word Aerial. Pass the NK wires thru this. This is for Original Brand Nintendo Motion Plus - April 2011 version. See video page this site to harvest MP+
Board is supplied with good quality 5.0v DC power from a UBEC
NOTE: This original Nintendo® NK has been harvested as per the video on the videos page this site. The ACC is located close to the geometric centre of the board. Stuck down with rubberised foam tape. It must be perfectly level/flat.
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HEXcopter Building guide
This HEXcopter (6 engine) diagram above shows the engine ESC pins used for flying a HEX MultiWiiCopter using our PARIS v3 Aerial photography board and the PPM SUM Receiver V8R7SP from FrSky®. Also works 100% with FUTABA R6007SP or Futaba R6107SP for HEX or Y6 , or Hacked Futaba R'xs and for JR/Spektrum® use this Encoder which combines all channels into one PPM stream.
This Y6copter (6 engine) diagram above shows the engine ESC pins used for flying a HEX MultiWiiCopter using our PARIS v3.0 aerial photography board and the PPM SUM Receiver V8R7SP from FrSky. Original Nintendo® MP+ is shown running from 4.5v(PIN12) Also works 100% with FUTABA R6007SP or Futaba R6107SP for HEX or Y6 , or Hacked Futaba R'xs and for JR/Spektrum® use this Encoder which combines all channels into one PPM stream.

To use my Spektrum DX7 Radio with a PARIS v3 180 board and fly Y6 or HEX you need one of these small DIYDrones encoders which combine the separate Channels into a single SUM line. They come preprogrammed 100% compatible and ready to go - just solder the 5 white wires and one black/red/white plug as shown here - then the other end goes to the THRO PPM SUM spot - no other wires required ! thats all! You don't need to run 6 sets of +ve /GND lines because you are just creating a ground loop. GEAR=AUX1 in GUI ; AUX1 = AUX2 in GUI - for Spektrum. I also sealed my DIYDrones board in clear heatshrink and added 90° pins so it could sit flat under my AR6100. Dont forget to enable the Sketch Code for PPM sum JR - works well also with Quad and Tricopter because it gives you access to AUX1 switches and also AUX2 - so you can enable BARO and LEVEL mode on two different switches.

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PARIS v 3.0 - Adding Barometer - BMP085
Nintendo Wii Motion Plus MP+
with LLC and BMA180 Acc
For Electronic Engineers
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Adding BMA020 Bosch Acc to a warthox FPV 2.0

The
BMA020 Acc by
BOSCH can be installed on the PARIS/warthox MultiWiiCopter boards instead of a Nunchuk to provide the auto LEVEL functionality . The BMA020 board has a built in
LLC and allows it to run on the 5v SDA/SCL lines safely. Use Foam tape to mount it as shown above. Note that the
Vcc line connect to 3 pins on the BMA020 and the
GND line to two pins on the BMA020.
The
BMA020 Acc by
BOSCH can be installed on the PARIS v3 MultiWiiCopter boards instead of a Nunchuk to provide the auto LEVEL functionality . The BMA020 board has a built in
LLC and allows it to run on the
5v SDA/SCL lines safely. Use Foam tape to mount it inverted orientation is as shown above. Note that the
Vcc line connect to 3 pins on the BMA020 and the
GND line to two pins on the BMA020. Below is the reverse side of the same board with original WiiMP+ gyro - Also COMMENT in the BMA020 in the Code!
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warthox FPV v 2.0 -Original Nintendo® Wii Motion Plus MP+
and LLC with BMA180 combo
For Electronic Engineers
Wii Original MP+ Gyro and Bosch® BMA180 Acc combo on a warthov v2 FPV - both run on 3v3 and use SMD pullups (installed for this setup with a SMD hot air reflow gun) to control the voltages in the I2C SDa /SCL lines which sit at around 2.6v - I found I get a nice flight characteristic with this setup for both PARIS and warthox; and will be easy to add the BARO to the LLC LV side.
NOTE : 2 x 2K2 1206 hardware pull-up resistors have been added as shown in this photo!
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PARIS v 3.0 - Original Nintendo Wii Motion Plus MP+
with LLC and BMA180 Acc
For Electronic Engineers
Wii Original MP+ Gyro and Bosch® BMA180 Acc combo on a PARIS v3 AP board - both the MP+ and the Acc run on 3v3 and use SMD pullups (activated on PARIS by closing the solder pads) to control the voltages in the I2C SDa /SCL lines which sit at around 2.6v - I found I get a nice flight LEVEL mode characteristic with this setup for both PARIS and warthox; and will be easy to add the BARO to the LLC LV side.
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TriCopter Building guide

This diagram (above) shows the engine ESC pins used for flying a TriCopter MultiWiiCopter using our warthox FPV v2.0 video board and the Spektrum 6 channel Rx 6110E - wiring is the same for all JR and Spektrum® Rx - Set Tx to PPM/Acro
This diagram (above) shows the engine ESC pins used for flying a TriCopter MultiWiiCopter using our PARIS v3.0 Aerial Photo board and the Spektrum 6 channel Rx 6110E - wiring is the same for all JR and Spektrum® Rx - Set Tx to PPM/Acro .
The tricopter servo benefits from a Capacitor at C1 in the range 2200-3300uF. A uBEC soldered to the 5v setting can be fitted to the BEC position - and then disconnect all the ESC red wires (after calibrating them to the Rx)
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Quad X copter Building guide
This diagram (above) shows the engine ESC pins used for flying a QUAD X MultiWiiCopter using our warthox FPV v2.0 video board and the Spektrum 6 channel Rx 6110E - wiring is the same for all JR and Spektrum® Rx - Set Tx to PPM/Acro
This diagram (above) shows the engine ESC pins used for flying a QUAD X MultiWiiCopter using our PARIS v.3.0 Aerial Photography board and the Spektrum 6 channel Rx 6110E - wiring is the same for all JR and Spektrum® Rx - Set Tx to PPM/Acro
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On the PARIS v4 the DC bus is split into 2 sections - this is designed to prevent any noise crossing over from the blue section ESCs and servos into the green section below - however unless you attach a separate UBEC you will not be able to power up your board. If you are not concerned about noise - then solder closed the jumper - upper right side - and disconnect the red wire from all but one ESC (after calibration) and put heat shrink on those red wire pins)
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PARIS v4.0 ERRATUM
There is an error in the early PARIS v4 LED earth strip for boards shipped before 18Aug - Newer v4.0 r3 board are NOT effected. For the older v4.0 if left as it is, it will function, but the LED strip will not Extenguish when the board is disarmed. It takes approx 2 mins to fix this safely.
1. Remove all power sources from the board
2. Cut the copper trace in the area shown in red
3. Scrape away the black mask on either side of the cut
4. Solder a short wire jumper as shown by the green line
5. solder/Attach the LED earth to the new position shown in blue
6. done
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ESC Calibration and ESC/Engine settings
For CarbonBird Motors - 775kv and 1220kv & HobbyWing® ESCs - fly with low timing (recommended) or medium timing.
I set Voltage Cut-off to Low -> Because I monitor LiPo via Telemetry "live" with Quanum
If you are using other motors -start at Low timing - if the motor/prop pulls smoothly without stuttering as you throttle up to full wide Open Throttle (WOT) - then leave it LOW timing - if it stutters on LOW timing change it to MED - try the full throttle range again up to WOT. Only use high if it continues to stutter (hesitate) on both LOW and MED - then only - try HIGH. We run all our factory demo machines on LOW - but the rule above applies and we still do full power checks - with PARIS bypassed - to see if all props - engines pull evenly at WOT - Take care doing full power checks - safety gear - and eye protection - two person test. Also a stuttering motor can be bad soldering on one wire - BEWARE - a single bad wire will blow your ESC! If you get a Stutter (ever) in a ground testy - cut power and investigate fully - NEVER push a speed controller which is trying to tell you something is not right - check your wiring and check all joints - sometimes they have been yanked under the heat shrink and are not right - !

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I also get my engines calibrated perfectly in 1 step -> using this combo-calibration-Wii lead I made (below) -
So I now can program all Six/four/Three engines in a single step - hooked direct to the Tx/Rx THRO port -
follow your owners manual ESC calibration procedure : -
Full Throttle ->
PWR to ESC on ->
2 Beeps ->
Throttle to idle ->
3 Beeps - Done!
This is only used to calibrate all engines so the props turn at exactly the same time - it is not used for flying!
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The Clasps on the SPARKFUN FTDi are not consistent and not tight enough for my liking (before photo) and lead to intermittent data issues in the GUI and also software related upload issues - I fixed this by ; 1) sanding away 2mm of plastic to expose the female clasps 2) using a spike - tweezers as shown here to gently tighten the female clasps (AFTER PHOTO)
It now grips very positively and GUI / data uploads are trouble free.
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history stuff
It's fairly well known that RTF multicopter systems filtering down from the military like DraganFlyer sell for $15,000; then more recently the MikroKopter systems went online selling kits for $3000 to $7000. The first MultiWiiCopter adapter boards were a result of a process involving several members of the RC Groups community; following on from the original 3 x HK401 gyro tricopters and Arduino software. The goal was to develop a DIY in-the-air cost of $350 for an indoor copter - made possible by Alex's DIY multicopter flight control system software. This has been achieved and the Liberté multicopter now flies under the name of MultiWiiCopter. The humble MultiWiiCopter is now an extremely strong contender in the market taking it to the Dragan and the MK. The design became popular due to advantages it had over other multicopter control systems:
- Based on the open-source and beginner-friendly Arduino software
- Capable of controlling multicopters suitable for hovering stability (requires acceloromter from Nintendo Wii Nunchuk) and/or aerobatics
- In addition to being configurable in the field via LCD display, the system can be configured and monitored through Alexinparis' free Arduino-based GUI on a PC or Mac (Arduino to USB connectivity required).
- More fine-grained user configuration is possible due to user-definable P, I & D parameters for Pitch (Nick), Roll and Yaw (many competing designs only offer a single user-definable parameter for each axis).
With feedback from other members in the now-epic RCgroups thread, Alexinparis extended the TriWiiCopter (later renamed to MultiWii) arduino sketch to support other multicopter configurations including Quad, QuadX, Y6 and Hex.
Design
The PARIS Aerial photography board powered by our very own Sirius® Navigator IMU produces stable and smooth video on our Carbon fibre SCARAB airframes. In Nov 2010 RCgroups member, AlouetteIII, a long time RC pilot, Air Force jet pilot, Rescue pilot and helicopter flight instructor decided to take the lead and make the risky decision to manufacture MultiWiiCopter boards and make them available to the DIY multicopter community worldwide. With encouragement and liaison with both Alexinparis and Markus, AlouetteIII refined and manufactured the first main boards, and is now has continued to develop and design. We sell direct to pilots the MultiWiiCopter PARIS boards from this very site (multiwiicopter.com). Original v1.0 was developed further and PARIS v2.0 products which were improved ; replaced by the PARIS v3.0 and the warthox v2.0 boards ; improved and replaced by PARIS v4.0. The idea behind our boards and other UAV products is this : -
- Clean design - neat - logical based on flying experience - not just CAD
- Original Airframes and Electronics flown by our Pro Pilots /FilmMakers team worldwide
- Aviation quality boards - stronger boards and thicker copper than any competitor's board
- Fast low cost shipping worldwide
- Top quality materials to CE and RoHS standards
- Designed by Pilots for pilots - no extra pins ; no extra rubbish found on competitors boards like buzzers - we use telemetry for individual cell monitoring, we listen to feedback
- Professional customer service - we reply to all emails promptly from our registered office - No hidden addresses and phone numbers like our competitors.