As we will be away OS on a photoshoot - orders lodged after 9th June - will not ship during 10th-22nd June inclusive, but will be processed in sequence, and resume shipping out from 24th June. Good news is Lots of new items are coming soon ! Thanks for your understanding and patience." Fly smooth and balance your props - Q and S
Monday 24th June 9am (AEST)
(For wiki information on superceded products please see the archive)
Getting Started - Transmitter Calibration
Welcome! DO NOT SKIP THIS first STEP above photo - the very first thing you must do for your first MultiWiicopter.com PARIS v4r6 board is Calibrate your Transmitter to give accurate PWM output range - every transmitter is slightly different - Create a new model memory on the Tx and Call it PARIS. Make sure your PC/Mac has JAVA loaded enabled - The GUI runs on JAVA - do a cold restart after installing Java - connect the Receiver (Rx) to the PARIS, connect the PARIS to your FTDI-USB - this supplies 5v power (after installing the FTDI drivers - HERE - cold restart) and turn on your Transmitter (Tx) and set ACRO(airplane) & PPM(not PCM). If your not sure leave your Radio on factory settings. 99% of RC radios output PPM and work with PARIS out of the box. Do NOT connect anything else yet (like ESC) to the PARIS ! - then Launch the matching 2.2->2.2 Configor 2.2->2.2 Application/program on your PC or Mac or the latest code 2.2and whilst looking at your PC screen - you will see that changes made on the Tx are sent to the PARIS via your Rx - and actual critical uSEC readings - 1095/1500mid/1905 can be set. If you cannot get it exact then use 1090/1500/1910. PARIS is a digital interface and the software running invisibly inside requires very specific digital PWM uSEC numbers to hover 100% auto-level, arm, disarm etc. So this may seem a bit weird but you will be using/pressing buttons on your Tx whilst your eyes are looking at your PC or Mac. So move all sticks to the centre - set all Tx trims to neutral - Now use SUB TRIM MENU on your Tx to set all mid points to 1500 on these blue bars. Then move, one at a time,move each stick to the low position and set 1095; then move each stick/switch to the high position and set 1905. Then go back and check all your midpoints are still 1500 Do this for all sticks and switches.
Orientation - the light blue bars (above) MUST move in the same direction as the stick you are moving - If they do not then REVERSE that Ch in your Tx. So if you move the throttle stick up - then the blue Throttle bar should move up. If you move your rudder right then the YAW bar should move right.
For Multwii code 2.2 or later (New Multiwii Code 2.2use 1.0.2 Arduino HERE - make sure you use GUI 2.2 to match it - clear the eeprom and make sure you recalibrate the ACC and MAG after any version changes - Calibrating a MAG means press the button and then rotating the Quad XYZ 360° in 30 secs)
thanks ..... take care and Fly Safe - QuintonAlouetteIII
(ABOVE) Carbon Armour- with extreme light weight Dupont Delrin and Full 3Kweave & double thickness 12/10mm real Carbon in this SCARAB - make possible handling that allows a Scarab Stealth Armour Trainer to be flown on a PARIS in ACRO mode with fast yet stable results - CrazyJ in USA shows us how it handles.
• Keep your PROPS OFF - not installed - until you are fully conversant/understand in full the functions of your Tx in full including TRAV (end Points), the arm and disarm procedures - realise that for a noob skiping or out-of-order set-up steps or moving sticks, or even static - PROPS may start at anytime without warning.Never install props prior to calibration of the ESC and testing the gyro orientation, and arm/disarm testing of the board - YOU are responsible - make sure your actions and your Copter is safe. Never ASSUME the props will not start - removing the props removes the risk.
Set Mode 2 (Throttle on left) Mode 2 mimics a real helicopter where the pilot operates
the 'Collective/Pwr' with his left hand - and the 'cyclic stick' with his right.
Set your Tx to ACRO (basic Airplane) mode - set PPM (not PCM), Activate Ch5 (Gear-Mode)
Read your Tx/Rx product manuals - You as the Pilot are responsible for safety.
Set the Throttle to OFF - After connecting the LiPo - The ESCs will beep to indicate they are powered but not armed - ESC's cannot arm on power-up with PARIS Wii boards. The embedded PARIS software prevents this and requires you arm with a stick combination below The red LED comes on (steady) on the CPU board showing the board has power. After connecting the LiPo (or USB) the green CPU LED will flash for 5 secs then go OUT If the LED blinks green (fast) but won't stop blinking - then the Rx is not powered by 5v (an Rx cannot get sufficient PWR from some USB! It must be powered by 5v from at least one BEC).If the green LED still blinks green (fast) but won't stop blinking -then the Rx is not connected to the correct PARIS/warthox THRO pin correctly. The ESCs cannot calibrate as a multi-engine-group because the default state of the CPU->ESC is Dis-armed for all engines. You need to calibrate ESC throttle-learning range as a separate exercise -below
If the ESC's beep-non-stop then they are not connected to the PARIS board ESC pins or the Rx is incorrectly connected or the Rx/PARIS sees you do not have your throttle to zero.
If your copter goes out of radio-range it may cause harm - if still powered - Take the precaution to program in the FAILSAFE condition to protect people/property. Do not skip this step.
Bind your failsafe (Read your Radio manual - FAILSAFE) on the Tx with power/Throttle set to OFF - Power off failsafe condition. You might decide to set the failsafe power to 1/3 throttle so the aircraft descends in a controlled descent - recommended if understood - For Example on FrSky - set sticks as above (or THRO to 1/3) - then Press the Rx button - 2 green flashes on the Rx itself - done. Failsafe can also be set in Software (NOT recommended - Use only for ultra basic or legacy Tx's - if your Tx has failsafe - use that). When you turn your Tx OFF in a test the Failsafe - should return the Copter to level and min-throttle -
NOTE : If you use a 1/3 power (controlled descent setting) be aware that if you switch your radio off while the PARIS armed - then you will initiate a 1/3 powered condition!
You must understand this concept fully and realise the word failsafe - does not mean you can be an idiot - sorry - you still need to understand the consequences of your chosen failsafe condition - and You will be deciding what the Radio will do when it cannot receive a signal. You are still the Pilot in command - YOU are responsible to decide how you will handle failsafe above.
Arming - Learn to recognise that your WiiCopter is ARMED. Hold right Yaw (or right cyclic) for 1 sec - you will see the Green LED come on - stays on SOLID
If LED does not come on GREEN - then increase YAW travel on the Tx (see Transmitter Calibration procedure - above top) - or Check the THRO is not actually reversed by mistake (Futaba) - then trim down a few clicks on the THRO trim. If it still won't arm connect FTDI and use the JAVA-Config (see below - install JAVA) to make sure the Throttle PWM is below 1100 (normal THRO range is 1100-1900) - In order to arm - the Wii CPU is looking for THRO and is a valuable guide to trouble-shoot a CPU which won't apparently arm.
Disarming - Learn to DISARM the ESC's before touching or approaching the Copter ESC's/Motors can start suddenly and the props can cut - fingers and eyes - permanent injuries With THRO OFF ; Hold the YAW stick LEFt for 1 sec ; then the CPU GREEN LED will go OUT and stay out
Gyro Calibration - Disarm the copter (see above) ; Place the Copter on a perfectly LEVEL LZ - it must be completely static - Set Trims to neutral - Stand back - With THRO off, Hold the YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ; release - you will see the GREEN LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out - The Gyro is now calibrated for drift (at this ambient temperature) - The Gyro on a PARIS/warthox board is the WiiMP+ You can Ddo this everytime you fly - preferably about 2mins after Powering up - in the outside air temps where you will fly.
Accelerometer (Acc) Calibration - Fly the Copter in ACRO mode - Trim the copter using the Transmitter stick sub-Trims so it hovers still on STILL air (no wind) - Land -
Disarm the copter (see above) ; ensure the Copter is on a perfectly LEVEL LZ - it must be completely static -
Confirm the DISARMED LED is OFF - Hold Full THRO/YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ;
release - you will see the GREEN LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out - The Acc is now calibrated for LEVEL mode (at this ambient temperature) - The ACC on a PARIS/warthox board is the Nunchuk®.
Accelerometer (Acc) Trimming - Also called auto-LEVEL trimming - FIRST do after the GYRO & ACC calibrations and normal ACRO trimming (see above) using the Tx trims. LAND.
Switch over to LEVEL mode (Gear Switch).
Take off and mentally note the way the copter wants to drift - DO NOTTRIM THE TX
- Land - The final ACC trimming procedure (below) is this -DISARM (see above - the Green LED will go OFF) Move the THRO to the 'Learn Position - full up) - in this example the copter was moving back and right - so ; using stick-banging - move the cyclic (right stick) up once (led blinks) - then left once (led blinks) - these alterations are saved to the CPU memory. ARM again - hover and repeat the process until the copter hovers 'level'.
TRI.Copter Arming - Because TriCopters are fitted with a YAW servo they have a special (alternate) arming procedure in >1.7 MultiWii software. Learn to recognise that your Wii TriCopter is ARMED. SET THRO to Zero - off - Hold Cyclic-right for 1 sec - you will see the Green LED come on - stays on If LED does not come on GREEN - then increase ELEV/AILER travel (see Transmitter Calibration procedure - above top) - Check the THRO is not actually reversed by mistake - and trim down a few clicks on the THRO trim If it still won't arm connect FTDI and use the JAVA-Config (see below) to make sure the Throttle PWM is below 1100 (normal THRO range is 1100-1900) - In order to arm - the Wii CPU is looking for THRO and is a valuable guide to trouble-shoot a CPU which won't arm. TRI.Copter
Disarming - Learn to DISARM the ESC's before touching or approaching the TriCopter
ESC's/Motors can start suddenly and the props can cut - fingers and eyes - permanent injuries With THRO OFF ; Hold the cyclic stick LEFT for 1 sec ; then the CPU GREEN LED will go OUT and stay out
Plug-n-Play PARIS boards come pre-tested - pre-configured - DO NOT reload code - chances are you have a Firmware to PC-java-driver GUI issue!
Here follows an intro to PARIS v4r6 code commenting by MultiWiiCopter customer "Deet" - thanks Deet
MultiWiiCopters fly on Arduino® software.
If your getting squirrelly behaviour after updating code - and it seems very unusual to you as an experienced flyer - (like an alien flying your copter not you ) - it possible the eeprom is corrupted - so just clear it out - clearing the eeprom - note down your old PIDS or do a screen capture of them - Fire up Arduino 1.0 to load MultiWii 2.2
then relaod the fully commented out PARIS specific 2.2 code for the configuration you have ie Quad X ; Futaba SUM Rx ; Pins A0 & A1 ; Pin 8 ; Motor Stop at arm ; etc.....
Effective 11March2013 - we recommend to move up to 2.2
The GUI & the Conf JAVA files for the latest MultiWii versions (Jan 2013) Multiwii Code 2.2use 1.0 Arduino HERE - make sure you use GUI 2.2 to match the firmware (so also v2.2) - clear the eeprom if you get any weirdness and make sure you recalibrate the ACC and MAG after any version changes) - For PC the 64bit version of GUI Java has a bug - please use the 32Bit version of GUI for 32bit and for 64bit PCs. The Mac version works with all known version of OSX including the latest OSX updates for 32bit or 64bit Macs.
Unzip the download and you get 2 folders - the Arduino Sketch files are in MultiWii_2_x Folder - dont relaod RAW sketch files into a PARIS - they will not work - a sketch file must be comment first to activate sensors and other important code features. The other folder MultiWiiConf_2_x contains the JAVA program/App - this is the GUI - The Conf is a JAVA Application which allows you to control lots of parameters on your PARIS and see feedback on-screen - If it does not run ; then update your JAVA.
Both/either the Arduino App (to load new version of firmware) and;or the JAVA-configGUI App are required to interact/tune the PIDs on a PARIS.
Apply 5v power for PC/PARIS-WiiBoard CPU/software - limited 5v comes from the USB cable from the PC/Mac via an FTDI connector(built-in to v4r6) and this is all that is need for a PARIS board and Rx during initial setup (PARIS & Rx not connected to the 4 ESCs yet). However 5v power from USB is limited (amp output on USB 5v by your PC is limited) - and once all your ESC speed controllers are connected to the PARIS - then you also need the main LiPo cell connected & props off (this will activate the 5v power BECs in each ESC) to make changes to a finished and flight ready PARIS and Scarab multicopter. Common noob mistake is to connect all ESC and then not connect the main aircraft LiPo.
MODIFYING or LEARNING to Code - Sketches
1) Connect the 5v to the PARIS via USB (or on older PARIS any 3pin ESC pin (do not reverse the pin or you will damage the PARIS) ;
DownLoad the FTDI Drivers HERE ; restart PC/Mac ; connect your USB plug to the USB/FTDI on your PARIS (disconnect any Bluetooth for code loading)
ParisUSB & PARISBluetooth CANNOT be used concurrently! Its either one or the other on the RS232 port!
3) Set the Tools->Serial Port->Com8 PC create artificial comm port No's - this takes a minute before the comm port appears (for Mac (providing you have installed the ftdi drivers (above) it will be instant - something like /dev/tty.usbserial-A8004Yt1 (7 digit alpha numeric) - if you see several listed pick the bottom one that has USB) - this selects the USB port you have the PARIS/warthox plugged in
4) Set the Tools->Board->Arduino Duemilanove ATmega328
importantly - see red outline above - shows correct board and a 7 digitiUSB port (mac) - PC will show Comm5
6) Now in Arduino - you will see the raw code(sketch) written in Arduino code. (this code is pre-commented for PARIS) - Important - Black items are active - Grey items are not active - Go to Config.h TAB
7) for example delete the // infront of a line to activate it - so - to #define MINTHROTTLE 1180 for your Quad
(already done if I have sent you the code) delete the // infront of this line (only do this to one of the MINTHROTTLES)
8) Defined Copter type - such as # define QuadX ; or #define TRI - if you want to define QUAD-X change to #define QUADX (you have to deleted the // - this is called commenting it into code) - comment out the type that was there before //#define TRI
9) Define Yaw direction (for Tricopters) #define YAW_DIRECTION 1 you can change this to the next line -1 t reverse it #define YAW_DIRECTION -1. Most types use +1 - but the exception is Triikopta which uses minus -1
10) To upload the new code (It wil overwrite everthing that was on the board before) File->Upload to I/O Board ; In the blue at the bottom you will see Uploading to I/O board ; after about 35secs it will say Done Uploading in the blue bar at the bottom
Gimbal - connect the gimbal servos to Cm1 (gimbal pitch) and Cm2(gimbal roll) - If you need to trigger a camera manually by pressing a button/servo - then connect this servo to Trg to activate the camera slave for a Gimbal mount on a Quad or Tricopter. Then alter the values for TILT_PITCH_PROP and TILTROLL_PROP until your gimbal remain level - reverse the servo by using minus (ie -10) - the default values of 10 needs to be changed to 22 for a Scarab Gimbal.
11) MOTOR STOP at Arm - I personally don't use motors-spinning-at-arm - It does not protect you from accidently dis-arming your copter in mid-air! So I first define MOTOR_STOP
Then after arming - the motors will twitch - but not spin up. :) Then - most importantly - I trim up on the Tx Throttle 5-6 clicks so all the props are turning at the MIN speed I require for an emergency decent - Then I fly. In this trimmed up condition it is impossible for me to accidentally disarm in flight even if I use full yaw in a full descent. The second major advantage of trim-up on the Tx is activating the stability system in a full-rate descent. That's my preference and each pilot must set his own FAILSAFE (see above) and set his own safety features ; The Captain of the aircraft (You) is responsible for his own training, the way he flies and his set-up.
12) In Arduino always SAVE your code before you upload - to make chages to your PARIS MultiWiicopter CPU - press UPLOAD in Arduino (see point 10) above) - it will do a complie check then upload. Errors are either code complie rrors - or FTDI comms errors - wrong Arduino type selected or PC/Mac issues.
13) Quit Arduino 1.0 software (two applications cannot share the serial RS232 connection)
The GUI - a JAVA Application
if you have GUI problems - assume you have a GUI mis-match to firmware issue - do not immediate load raw code and stuff up a perfect plug-n-play board
Refer Picture ABOVE - Note be sure to Quit Arduino® software before trying to run the GUI (two applications cannot share the ftdi -connection) - Do not reload default code! Stay calm. Your pnp PARIS has already been tested and calibrated. Open (or search for) the java App called MultiWiiConf2_1.app (PC apps end in .exe) Start this application (program) a1) After pressing the COM link - wait 2 secs - then press Start a2 -> then wait 2 secs -> wait 4 secs - (if you click these buttons without waiting 2 secs you can erase your eeprom and all the values will read ZEROS) press READ a3 ; Your GUI is now connect live to your PARIS - again - don’t rush the clicks or you may wipe the eeprom. Make a note of all your values before you change them (Screen Capture/Print Screen) - just incase you have to go back to them (general rule is never change more than one thing at a time) It should look like the values from my screen capture above b4 - Transmitter Calibration - covered on Pg 1 - connect your Tx - Rx and USB-> You will now importantly see the values for low stick / mid stick / high stick VERY IMPORTANT - using your Tx - alter the travel (futaba call these end points) to first get 1500 for mid stick ; then 1095 for low stick ; then 1905 for high stick - then - ESC THROTTLE LEARNING - NOW go back and do the ESC calibration one by one for THORTTLE-LEARNING (an ESC function - nothing to do with Multiwiisoftware) b5 - check the values in this area are all even (the same) at low throttle settings - if not then make sure - again - that you are in ACRO mode and the mid stick is at 1500 - see b4c6 - Click and hold the boxes to change them - then press write c7. If you got a PNP board D8 & D9 are already done for you. with the PARIS ACC perfectly level and still press calib_acc d8 - then wait 4 secs - then press Calibrate_MAG d9 - the LED blinks rapidly - you have 30secs to rotate the board (or better still the entire Quad with LiPo) 360° degress in all axis X, Y and Z - when the LED stops blinking it will save all the MAG tilt errors to eprom. The actual heading shown is effected by magnetic forces - metal objects - EMI
If your Copter is not flying stable or close to stable on default PIDs, as shown above e10 then do not alter the PIDs like a madman - The electronics/software will not save you from un-balanced props - or a bad combination of PROPS/ESC/MotorWindings. Light weight props and Medium/high timing are required. Balance your props on a magnetic balancer until they run silky smooth...then balance them one at a time on a hand-rig for dynamic balance. With a motor on a boom run each one atdifferent RPM to check the running (dynamic ) balance of that prop - use electrical tpe to balance them ---- to change values in e10 - click-hold-drag ; then press write.
e10 - So what are PIDS on a PARIS board - these relate mainly to the size and weight of the Multicopter - its disc loading ; rigidity of the props - soft flexible props need higher P and very rigid stiff props need lower P P = Proportional ; I = Integral ; D = Derivative - Start with P. NB:Never change more than one value at a time - make small changes = 5-10% - then fly - then change it again then fly - make small changes - sometimes a change of 0.1 will make the difference between too soft feeling poor control ; and at the other extrem rapid oscillations and good stability. Main work flow of tunings is start in ACRO mode - level PIDS on defaults as supplied - process is - fly/hover briefly in the hover -> Rapid Oscillations = P is too high (especially roll) ; or wallowing - swaying around with a feeling of RC disconnection requiring large stick movements = P value is too low. Make a note of all your values before you change them - then change P by 0.1->0.3 steps and fly. After hover tuning you can do fast forward flight check - sometime in fast flight you need to back doown the P value by another 0.2 Remember - before you start - do this [Screen Capture/Print Screen] - just incase you have to go back to defaults (general rule is never change more than one thing at a time) It should look like the values from my screen capture below. For a full explaination of PIDs we recommendBajgik's guide here
If you see a problem - this is called an indicator - dont ignore it - so if all your props do NOT start together - turning at the same moment - dont go to the next step - PID tuning is done after the previous mile-stone steps are completed correctly.
The Sirius® Navigator uses the ITG3200 gyro/BMA180 ACC/BMP085Baro and 5883L MAG (- Calibrating a MAG means press the button and then rotating the Quad XYZ 360° in 30 secs )
first active the Sirius - see below - comment it into the code
Tune the LP filter in the Arduino software for the 3200 gyro - the default 256Hz low pass filter will work for smaller high speed Multicopters but if you are running slower RPMs and 2 bladed props you may need to move to a lower LP frequency to filter out any random twitching. Alter it down in steps. the screenshot animation -below - shows selecting the 42Hz fLP filter - then fly - don't go lower than you need to remove the random twitch. If you cannot remove the twitch no matter what LP filter filter then either change your props/motors/esc or fit an original Nintendo® Wii MP+ IDG600 gyro and de-activate the 3200 from the code
NOTE: Because the ITG3200 is so sensitive you MUST balance all props, balance all engines and check all shafts and collets are running true. dont add extra foam! this cause resonance - Dont use hot melt glue!
Theoretically a faster I2C bus rate is better - but I find that in real life flight tests there is not advantage to 400khz over 100khz - realistically the motors and props have inertia and the faster data flow is irrelevant at the props cannot change speed anything like this by physical limitations of inertia. If you get a placebo effect from 400khz - cool.
For the Sirius 600
you need to do one more thing
1. Comment out the ITG3200 in the def.h panel - so add two // - This effectively activates the IDG600 MP+ gyro
Thats it ! Your PC/Mac - and You - and your Copter are now in RC heaven.
MultiWii GUI - More control and more data for the PILOT
After commenting (writing changes - see above) to your Arduino code and uploading it to your board (see above - already done in the Plug-n-Play versions) Launch the JAVA GUI App -
Press the PORT COM link COM8 -> (wait 5 secs) then START - (then wait 4 secs)Then READ - Then CALIBRATE - You will se this.
Changing the Yaw rate to 0.3 increases the turn speed
Changing the check boxes allows combinations from a single switch such as Baro
There are no secret PIDs !!!! - If your Multiwiicopter does not fly well on my default PIDs (below) that I install on all PNP PARIS boards (below) - then its an aero-dynamic problem - this means you made it
To Heavy - Max is 320g per prop
You mis-matched the props/motors and ESC
You did not calibrate your ESC to the PARIS/ESCs
You did not set your minThrottle high enough - 1190 min
You did not balance your props Statically
You did not balance your props Dynamically (running - turning)
You did not balance your motors
You were fooled into buyng a box-section lattice work aerodynamic disaster airframe - SCARABS uses slender circular booms very a VERY good reason based on aerodynamic drag and turbulence
Question - What is the meaning of the LEDS'on a PARIS board?
Answers - These mean different things at different times - The GUI Config on your PC/Mac is far more useful but when your Copter is not connected to the PARIS board the led can provide some limited information - see below - also please study our Tx animations above RED LED = power to 328 CPU is ON - should always be on The CPU board gets power from the 5v BUS ; or USB The Rx and 5v BUS gets power from a UBEC or a BEC on one of your ESCs - ; Rx/Tri-servo NOT powered via USBGREEN LED on the CPU board and the Hi-Output LED(either bright white or bright green) have several functions
GREEN LED is doing this :-
1) GREEN LEDS are on and stay on when the board is armed - are OFF and stay OFF when the board is DISARMED
2) GREEN LEDS blink rapidly 5 times Cal.Sticks.Gyro of the Gyro(MP+) then goes off - wait 10 secs
3) GREEN LEDS blink medium whilst computing a Cal.Sticks.Acc of the Acc(NK) then goes off - wait 10 secs
4) GREEN LEDS blinks during initial power up then goes OFF (the very FIRST time it will not because it's never been calibrated :) (see Cal.1 Cal.2 and Cal.3 procedure - below)
5) GREEN LEDS blink slowly if a problem is detected on start-up - code error (usually calibration NOT done)
6) GREEN LEDS blink slowly if Calibration Cal.1 Cal.2 and Cal.3 not completed (see below)
7) blinks once to indicate the CPU compute's a leveling correction
8) GREEN LEDS blinks rapidly 5 times for each stick-banging throw in ACC trimming "learning" mode
9) GREEN LEDS blinks slowly after loading Software in Arduino22 and before doing the Cal.GUI.Acc (see below)
10) GREEN LEDS blinks very rapidy for 30 secs when doing MAG calibration - stops by itself when finished - Calibrating a MAG means press the button and then rotating the Quad XYZ 360° in 30 secs
11) GREEN LEDS comes one when disarmed if it detects the PARIS board is tilted >20° or so - goes off again if the board is leveled out
Question : What is the AUTO LEVEL LED for? - Answer: The reason it is called AUTO LEVEL LED is that it is used to verify the function of the 'learning' trimming of the stick-banging method for the ACC (also the reason why it faces backwards towards the pilot on takeoff - also faces the pilot when he lands to trim the ACC) - because this is done at the flying field with the copter in the outdoors/sun it has to be bright enough to see at 10 paces in sunlight - so land - disarm - it goes OFF - go to learning mode (see wiki above ACC trimming) then for each stick-banging throw you will see the 5 fast flashes of this LED. Arm again - goes on - fly
At the moment there is no provision for a dedicated/separate (third) modeLED in the 1.8 software - a good idea for future versions of the software - First verify your chosen switch (usually gear Switch) is working in the GUI - then mark your Tx switch (as you have selected for ACRO/LEVEL modes - see below in GUI) with red sticker, if you need it. I fly in ACRO mode and only switch to LEVEL mode for high hovers and high -> low hover decent Aerial photo flights or FPV
Answer - Pullups are resistors :) There are some inside your CPU controlled/activated by software - some on your PARIS as per this photo above.
- For 1.7 code and later, a PARIS fitted with 5v sensors (MP+ and NK originals) on the PARIS (or our old warthox board) the default software and hardware as you get them, are correct. You don't have to do anything in the code. All the data on the SDA and SCL I2C bus is running at 5v or slightly less voltage. Same goes for 1.8 software. The internal pullups inside the CPU are not as good as the hardware ones we provide because their value is too high at ~20K and they are essential "slow" resulting in inferior I2C data waveforms as seen on an oscilloscope - hence the reason we provide hardware pulls which are specifically 2k2 to be faster.
If you want to connect 3v3 sensors like BARO, ACC or MAG then active the code line here
Bearing in mind the above, when you attach 3.3v sensors, the CPU is still running 5v voltages in the SCL and SDA lines and you will blow you LV sensors even if you you use the 3.3v Vcc supply - unless you activate our pullups - You can also choose to activate our 2k2 hardware pullups (solder pads) on the PARIS; (or install the 1206 SMD pullups on our old warthox board on the vacant pads) . If you want to run mixed voltages - ie some devices at 5v (keep the motion plus MP+ running at 5v so it can reset in flight) and some devices at 3.3v then the LLC is used and the 5v devices are connected to the HV side and the 3.3v devices are connected to the LV side.
For example if you were only going to connect a Sirius® IMU to an older PARIS v3 (and specifically remove your MP+ - which we don't actually recommend removing - FYI the MP+ 600 gyro original is a very very good Gyro suited 100% to all multicopters with some onboard vibration - We would recommend to run both the MP+ and the Sirius together - especially if you already own to fantastic MP+) then, in the instance of Sirius alone , you would leave the code at default - close the solder pad to activate our hardware 2k2 pullups (bringing your SDA and SCL lines down below 3.3v) and connect Sirius Vcc to the PARIS 3.3v line on the IMU side.
On the PARIS v4 the DC bus is split into 2 sections - this is designed to prevent any noise crossing over from the blue section ESCs and servos into the green section below - however unless you attach a separate UBEC you will not be able to power up your board. If you are not concerned about noise - then solder closed the jumper - upper right side - and disconnect the red wire from all but one ESC (after calibration) and put heat shrink on those red wire pins)
For CarbonBird Motors - 775kv and 1220kv & HobbyWing® ESCs - fly with low timing (recommended) or medium timing.
I set Voltage Cut-off to Low -> Because I monitor LiPo via Telemetry "live" with Quanum
If you are using other motors -start at Low timing (item 6 in photo below) - if the motor/prop pulls smoothly without stuttering as you throttle up to full wide Open Throttle (WOT) - then leave it LOW timing - if it stutters on LOW timing change it to MED - try the full throttle range again up to WOT. Only use high if it continues to stutter (hesitate) on both LOW and MED - then only - try HIGH. We run all our factory demo machines on LOW - but the rule above applies and we still do full power checks - with PARIS bypassed - to see if all props - engines pull evenly at WOT - Take care doing full power checks - safety gear - and eye protection - two person test. Also a stuttering motor can be bad soldering on one wire - BEWARE - a single bad wire will blow your ESC! If you get a Stutter (ever) in a ground testy - cut power and investigate fully - NEVER push a speed controller which is trying to tell you something is not right - check your wiring and check all joints - sometimes they have been yanked under the heat shrink and are not right - !
Some Noobs want to use their wallet to buy their way to a full auto-pilot and have their first aircraft fully autonomous - so buying a Wookong M for their first copter - or get GPS so that GPS controls the aircraft for them - I understand a photographer just wants to shoot - but unfortunately putting a vehicle up in the sky is a big responsibility which rests on the shoulders of people - we call these people pilots - wether they are on the ground or upin the craft - so we STRONGLY advise you to get stick skills first
the real JOY of the multiwiicopter PARIS ACRO system is the amazing combination of smooth 100% control with full stability only PARIS offers - hard to explain - it's just amazing how the basic flight mode - called ACRO - handles really well - its far more satisfying than MikroKopter or DJI autopilot level modes - in these other highly automated platforms you feel like a cab passenger in New York - you can basically direct the Cab to go where you want but your in no noubt that your NOT the driver - Well with Multiwiicopter hardware/software it's the opposite - in ACRO mode (ACRO = stupid name - should be called AWESOME mode or Real Pilot HERO mode) you have absolute and complete control - yet its smooth predictable and stable. ALL the team pilots at MultiWiicopter.com fly in ACRO mode - almost all the time.
First off I fly Mode 2 - I am a real Helicopter pilot/instructor - so the other modes are like weird to me - sorry mode 1 guys - but as per a real Heli - right hand controls X&Y and left hand controls Z axis
I set on 2 posn switch above throttle (or the right stick on some Tx) this switch controls ACRO/LEVEL - down is ACRO - up is LEVEL on.
on 3 position stitch on right side - up off/mid MAGon/ down/MAG & BARO on
I fly 95% in ACRO - I use LEVEL mode only for
High hover parking while looking at something (my ground station LCD)
I use LEVEL mode for Take-off on FPV video goggles - FPV - when in sloping or patterned area with no obvious level horizon line - first 10m climb out - then switch back to ACRO
Crash recovery - if lost orientation - crash recovery panic is a) power up 70% b)hit switch above LEVEL on c)release right stick to centre it
I use MAG for level hover heading lock - MAG does not work when tilted more than 20° - erratic readings - don't go flying around at high bank angles in MAG locked mode. - Calibrating a MAG means press the button and then rotating the Quad XYZ 360° in 30 secs
I use BARO - for high hover parking at 100 feet up above my head (in calm wind - otherwise it will go downwind) - its not ultra sonic - use your eyes/brain/hands to hover the aircraft - you don't need an auto plit for this - get more stick time and get your skills developed.
GPS - For PARIS GPS coming mid July - I add a Position Hold PH switch on the far right front - and a Return to Home switch RTH on the far right top.
Oscillations during climb or duduring high power throttle moves.
These rapid oscillations occur in short compact airframes such as Stealth Series of Scarab when the P gains are set high - especially in LEVEL mode - and all you need do is back the LEVEL P value down by 0.5 and then set the Throttle PID Attenuation to 0.32 - see red circle below - this reduces the effective PIDS gains above 50% and has an ever increasing effect as the throttle is raised thru 75% to 100%
Q. Whats Required to be a UAV Pilot in Australian Skies? A. You need a Controllers Certificate CC - There is no specific Course for UAV yet to get your CC , at Dec2012 it is the just the BAK/PPL (private pilot) Course. You can do either the Heli or the Plank wing course - generally the heli course is more expensive so I would recommend the aeroplane PPL subjects unless you have ambitions of flying a real heli too and want to get of some serious cash in the process. For PPL(A) I have known Bob Tait for more than 20 years in my time as a Flight Instructor - his theory school is the real deal - goto www.bobtait.com.au click on Full Time Courses, BAK/PPL and you will find the dates for next year as well as the cost.
The costs approx of the three week Full Time Course is ($)1,400 course is full time only. I recommend to get away from your normal work and crack the course in peace and quite. The CASA PPL Exam is approx ($)180, the Study Guides are ($)86 ea - the Students also require some CASA Documents. Bob Tait Aviation Theory School Theory does not supply these Documents but they can be ordered from a Pilot Supply Shop or direct from Air Services. It's best if the Students leave these documents until they go to the Course and we can order them, just so no-one ends up spending money they may not have to.
To obtain a AUV Controllers Certificate 1 (CC) [below 400ft AGL and within line of sight], it is necessary to pass the current CASA PPL examinations. To operate beyond line of sight, it is necessary to also pass the current CASA IREX exam.
Although the current GA system requires a candidate to pass a flying school’s BAK exam before undertaking the PPL exam, this requirement will be waived for candidates wishing to obtain only a UAV certificate. The process is as follows.
Obtain an ARN [Aviation Reference Number] by filling in a form which can be downloaded from the CASA web site.
Study the material required by the PPL syllabus – either by home study or by attending a full-time course at . See our web site at www.bobtait.com.au
Contact Phil Presgrave at CASA [email protected] for a letter of dispensation for the requirement to sit the BAK exam.
Arrange with ASL or an approved flying school to sit the PPL exam.
Complete your CC application form and pay the CASA fee - approx ($)180 - check this form carefully and include your log book to show 5 hrs & manufacturer training cource on type.
CASA intends to eventually approve certain UAV operators to conduct UAV specific integrated courses. Candidates who complete one of those courses will not need to sit the CASA PPL exam. However that will not be happening any time soon.
Once you have a CC in your hand you need to team up with a Certified Operator who has a Full OC - then work directly under his Company licence using his CASA approved Operations Manual and comply in full with his procedures.